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[Backyard Mechanic]

http://tinyurl.com/7m4b9

Complaint:
new starter,relay,ignition switch,key switch,batt cables even to the
starter i hook up the battery and it still engages the starter on it's
own.i'm lost,i checked eveything HELP!!!!

Fix:
..I did test the single wire from the ignition
switch[kusty] only 1 wire on this set up,yes it was hot constant,i put in
a new ignition switch.it tested fine at 1rst.i thought i put the old[2nd]
solinoid through enough so put on #3 i know the other wires are running
other things but have had them short before and weld the solinoid
contacts,it's been years since i've delt with theese and you both wolk me
up..it turns out the idiot who sold me this took scotch locks ewwwwwww
and
used the wires under the dash that he could find to wire in a stereo &
amp.yes the truck did seem to be possesed ...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Anyone who has thought Scotchloks were great and depended on them has
probably been let down, sometime

--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

[pottsy]

Scotchloks are easy, fast, cheap and simple (sounds like me!)
but crap
The vibrations of a car will loosen the IDC terminal over time and if used
under the bonnet or exposed to damp or dirt it will fail sooner rather than
later.
The sodding things can even show volts on a test meter but not pass enough
current to operate whatever is connected.
Absolutely no substitute for a properly made off connection.

m

[tom]

I have been using scotchloks for over 20 years, and only had a
problem/return with one of the thousands I used. and that one was a second
use, because I ran out and did not get to the store to get a new box. the
trick to successful use of a scotchlok connector is to use dielectric grease
with it.
"pottsy" <pottsy@pottsy.com> wrote in message
news:dmrqdq$5ci$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

[Backyard Mechanic]

That is most likely true... and if that dielectric grease (used to
exclude air from the joint and prevent oxidation) was included with them,
and users read the directions, perhaps it would be different... as it is
-my warning stands.

"tom" <tjctransport@optonline.net> wrote:

[SC Tom]

I, too, have used Scotchloks for a number of years, but not the "clip-over"
type. The ones I have involve cutting the existing wire and putting each end
in the holes provided, then adding in the 3rd (new device) wire in the 3rd
hole and pressing the center button down. These are round ones with grease
already in them, and 3 holes in which to put the wires being spliced. I
started using this type probably 25 years ago on my boat- the salt air and
water along the coast will eat up the regular Scotchloks in a matter of
months. These are permanent, though- the only way to remove them is to cut
the wires.

I must say, though, that my preferred method of splicing is shrink tubing
and a soldering iron.

SC Tom

"Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote in message
news:Xns97214D962B0EApettyfogery@207.115.63.158...

[pottsy]

nah, they're adaquate for comms and data stuff in buildings where they're
not subject to any sort of mechanical stress and are in clean and air
controlled conditions and not carrying any ampage (is that a word?), but
they're just a short term fix in vehicles.

m

[WindsorFox]

pottsy wrote:

[WindsorFox]

pottsy wrote:

[pottsy]

IDC connectors (insulation displacement contacts) were invented by Krone for
use in the data + comms industry. They are designed to work on single strand
cable.
Scotchloks and the like are a derivative of the Krone connector and operate
on the same principal. If they're used on miltistrand cable as used in
vehicles, the strands move and the connection gets loose.
If you're happy with 'em that's just fine.
I prefer to take that bit more time and do the job properly.

(you're right about the word 'amperage' tho')

:)