| Author |
Message |
Tiny
Guest
|
 Posted:
Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:46 am Post subject:
Ignition Switch With Armored Cable |
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I have a 38 Chevy Coupe with a bad ignition switch. It is connected to
the coil via an armored cable that ties into the back of the swich and
the top of the coil.
Is it possible to remove the cable from the back of the switch so the
switch can be replaced without also replacing the coil? I've never
been into one of these set-ups before and I've had no luck finding
technical assistance. I'm not even sure how to get the switch out of
the dash. I looked at an old Motor manual but it was no help. Any
assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
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Leon Rowell
Guest
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| Posted:
Thu Sep 22, 2005 8:12 am Post subject:
Re: Ignition Switch With Armored Cable |
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Tiny,
The first thing you will need to do is to remove the lock cylinder from
the switch. Disconnect the battery cables if you haven't already.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn clockwise until it stops.
Insert a stiff wire into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder next
to the keyway and depress the spring loaded plunger (a large paperclip
works good for this). Continue turning the key clockwise until you can
pull the cylinder out. You may have to pull the paperclip out as you
turn the cylinder so it doesn't bind. You can now unscrew the trim ring
from the face of the switch and remove the switch assembly.
I am not sure if the cable screws into the back of the switch or if you
have to bend the three metal tabs out to remove the cable from the back
of the switch housing.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Leon Rowell, Locksmith
"Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"
Tiny wrote:
| Quote: | I have a 38 Chevy Coupe with a bad ignition switch. It is connected to
the coil via an armored cable that ties into the back of the swich and
the top of the coil.
Is it possible to remove the cable from the back of the switch so the
switch can be replaced without also replacing the coil? I've never
been into one of these set-ups before and I've had no luck finding
technical assistance. I'm not even sure how to get the switch out of
the dash. I looked at an old Motor manual but it was no help. Any
assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny |
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Tiny
Guest
|
| Posted:
Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:14 pm Post subject:
Re: Ignition Switch With Armored Cable |
|
|
On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 22:28:41 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net>
wrote:
| Quote: | Tiny,
The first thing you will need to do is to remove the lock cylinder from
the switch. Disconnect the battery cables if you haven't already.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn clockwise until it stops.
Insert a stiff wire into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder next
to the keyway and depress the spring loaded plunger (a large paperclip
works good for this). Continue turning the key clockwise until you can
pull the cylinder out. You may have to pull the paperclip out as you
turn the cylinder so it doesn't bind. You can now unscrew the trim ring
from the face of the switch and remove the switch assembly.
I am not sure if the cable screws into the back of the switch or if you
have to bend the three metal tabs out to remove the cable from the back
of the switch housing.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Leon Rowell, Locksmith
"Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"
Thanks a ton Leon! My car club is hosting a show this weekend so I |
won't be able to try this for a couple of days. I'll post the results.
| Quote: |
Tiny wrote:
I have a 38 Chevy Coupe with a bad ignition switch. It is connected to
the coil via an armored cable that ties into the back of the swich and
the top of the coil.
Is it possible to remove the cable from the back of the switch so the
switch can be replaced without also replacing the coil? I've never
been into one of these set-ups before and I've had no luck finding
technical assistance. I'm not even sure how to get the switch out of
the dash. I looked at an old Motor manual but it was no help. Any
assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
|
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
|
|
| Back to top |
|
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Leon Rowell
Guest
|
| Posted:
Sat Sep 24, 2005 5:48 am Post subject:
Re: Ignition Switch With Armored Cable |
|
|
Sounds good Tiny. Good luck with the show.
Leon
Tiny wrote:
| Quote: | On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 22:28:41 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net
wrote:
Tiny,
The first thing you will need to do is to remove the lock cylinder from
the switch. Disconnect the battery cables if you haven't already.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn clockwise until it stops.
Insert a stiff wire into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder next
to the keyway and depress the spring loaded plunger (a large paperclip
works good for this). Continue turning the key clockwise until you can
pull the cylinder out. You may have to pull the paperclip out as you
turn the cylinder so it doesn't bind. You can now unscrew the trim ring
from the face of the switch and remove the switch assembly.
I am not sure if the cable screws into the back of the switch or if you
have to bend the three metal tabs out to remove the cable from the back
of the switch housing.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Leon Rowell, Locksmith
"Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"
Thanks a ton Leon! My car club is hosting a show this weekend so I
won't be able to try this for a couple of days. I'll post the results.
Tiny wrote:
I have a 38 Chevy Coupe with a bad ignition switch. It is connected to
the coil via an armored cable that ties into the back of the swich and
the top of the coil.
Is it possible to remove the cable from the back of the switch so the
switch can be replaced without also replacing the coil? I've never
been into one of these set-ups before and I've had no luck finding
technical assistance. I'm not even sure how to get the switch out of
the dash. I looked at an old Motor manual but it was no help. Any
assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny |
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Tiny
Guest
|
| Posted:
Mon Sep 26, 2005 11:33 pm Post subject:
Re: Ignition Switch With Armored Cable |
|
|
On Fri, 23 Sep 2005 19:48:04 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net>
wrote:
| Quote: | Sounds good Tiny. Good luck with the show.
Leon
Tiny wrote:
On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 22:28:41 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net
wrote:
Tiny,
The first thing you will need to do is to remove the lock cylinder from
the switch. Disconnect the battery cables if you haven't already.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn clockwise until it stops.
Insert a stiff wire into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder next
to the keyway and depress the spring loaded plunger (a large paperclip
works good for this). Continue turning the key clockwise until you can
pull the cylinder out. You may have to pull the paperclip out as you
turn the cylinder so it doesn't bind. You can now unscrew the trim ring
from the face of the switch and remove the switch assembly.
I got the cylinder out but there is no "trim ring". The chrome face of |
the switch covered the whole hole in which the rest of the switch
resides. Inside the hole there are three "lugs" that were right behind
the chrome face plate and they appear to take a special tool of some
kind to grip them. The "lugs" are also directly in line with three
"bump outs" on the inside of the hole in the dash. I've not been able
to get the "lugs" to turn using a scribe to push against them and
plyers won't fit. This all probably sounds confusing because I'm
probably not using the correct terminology. Is <leon429@netins.net>
your correct e-mail?? If so I'll try to get my digital camera to take
a good enough picture to send to you to show the situation.
| Quote: |
I am not sure if the cable screws into the back of the switch or if you
have to bend the three metal tabs out to remove the cable from the back
of the switch housing.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Leon Rowell, Locksmith
"Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"
Thanks a ton Leon! My car club is hosting a show this weekend so I
won't be able to try this for a couple of days. I'll post the results.
Tiny wrote:
I have a 38 Chevy Coupe with a bad ignition switch. It is connected to
the coil via an armored cable that ties into the back of the swich and
the top of the coil.
Is it possible to remove the cable from the back of the switch so the
switch can be replaced without also replacing the coil? I've never
been into one of these set-ups before and I've had no luck finding
technical assistance. I'm not even sure how to get the switch out of
the dash. I looked at an old Motor manual but it was no help. Any
assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
|
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny |
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| Back to top |
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Tiny
Guest
|
| Posted:
Tue Sep 27, 2005 4:01 am Post subject:
Re: Ignition Switch With Armored Cable |
|
|
On Fri, 23 Sep 2005 19:48:04 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net>
wrote:
| Quote: | Sounds good Tiny. Good luck with the show.
Leon
Disregard the previous post. I got it figured out and fixed it. Thanks |
for the help Leon.
| Quote: |
Tiny wrote:
On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 22:28:41 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net
wrote:
Tiny,
The first thing you will need to do is to remove the lock cylinder from
the switch. Disconnect the battery cables if you haven't already.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn clockwise until it stops.
Insert a stiff wire into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder next
to the keyway and depress the spring loaded plunger (a large paperclip
works good for this). Continue turning the key clockwise until you can
pull the cylinder out. You may have to pull the paperclip out as you
turn the cylinder so it doesn't bind. You can now unscrew the trim ring
from the face of the switch and remove the switch assembly.
I am not sure if the cable screws into the back of the switch or if you
have to bend the three metal tabs out to remove the cable from the back
of the switch housing.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Leon Rowell, Locksmith
"Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"
Thanks a ton Leon! My car club is hosting a show this weekend so I
won't be able to try this for a couple of days. I'll post the results.
Tiny wrote:
I have a 38 Chevy Coupe with a bad ignition switch. It is connected to
the coil via an armored cable that ties into the back of the swich and
the top of the coil.
Is it possible to remove the cable from the back of the switch so the
switch can be replaced without also replacing the coil? I've never
been into one of these set-ups before and I've had no luck finding
technical assistance. I'm not even sure how to get the switch out of
the dash. I looked at an old Motor manual but it was no help. Any
assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
|
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Leon Rowell
Guest
|
| Posted:
Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:55 am Post subject:
Re: Ignition Switch With Armored Cable |
|
|
No problem. Glad you got it sorted out.
Leon
Tiny wrote:
| Quote: | On Fri, 23 Sep 2005 19:48:04 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net
wrote:
Sounds good Tiny. Good luck with the show.
Leon
Disregard the previous post. I got it figured out and fixed it. Thanks
for the help Leon.
Tiny wrote:
On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 22:28:41 -0500, Leon Rowell <leon429@netins.net
wrote:
Tiny,
The first thing you will need to do is to remove the lock cylinder from
the switch. Disconnect the battery cables if you haven't already.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn clockwise until it stops.
Insert a stiff wire into the hole in the face of the lock cylinder next
to the keyway and depress the spring loaded plunger (a large paperclip
works good for this). Continue turning the key clockwise until you can
pull the cylinder out. You may have to pull the paperclip out as you
turn the cylinder so it doesn't bind. You can now unscrew the trim ring
from the face of the switch and remove the switch assembly.
I am not sure if the cable screws into the back of the switch or if you
have to bend the three metal tabs out to remove the cable from the back
of the switch housing.
Let me know if you have any problems.
Leon Rowell, Locksmith
"Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"
Thanks a ton Leon! My car club is hosting a show this weekend so I
won't be able to try this for a couple of days. I'll post the results.
Tiny wrote:
I have a 38 Chevy Coupe with a bad ignition switch. It is connected to
the coil via an armored cable that ties into the back of the swich and
the top of the coil.
Is it possible to remove the cable from the back of the switch so the
switch can be replaced without also replacing the coil? I've never
been into one of these set-ups before and I've had no luck finding
technical assistance. I'm not even sure how to get the switch out of
the dash. I looked at an old Motor manual but it was no help. Any
assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny
Man who scratches ass shouldn't bite fingernails.
The gene pool needs more chlorine.
Change .com to .net to reply direct.
www.terraworld.net/tiny |
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