HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm
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HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm
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Matt
Guest





Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 2:17 am    Post subject: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

Hello,

Pulling KOEO codes 41, 42, 65 and 86, lean condition, no EGO
switching, etc. all likely related to the same problem, unmetered air.

I think I have covered most of the bases here... with the engine base
timing at 10d bdc and the throttle set up to ~1000 rpm with IAC
unplugged, when I plug the IAC back in the car idles at ~2000 rpm (the
spout connector is also back in). Because I find 2000 rpms annoying
at a stop, I have been setting the throttle plate adjustment out of
spec to keep the idle down to 1500 rpms, which I find at least
bearable.

The only next step I can think of is pulling the fuel rail out and
installing new O-Rings, rubber fittings, etc. on the original
injectors. Replacing them is too expensive ($200+), and from what I
read in this ng, highly likely a waste of money.

I have been stumped for a while on this, but here is a summary of my
findings, looking for input on where to go next.

1. Temporarily plugged up the accessory manifold vacuum line on the
intake manifold (cuts off the cruise control, brake power assist), no
change in idle. The fuel regulator and line holds vacuum, no air
leaking.

2. Temporarily plugged up the PCV intake on the throttle body, no
change in idle. Picked up a working canp solenoid from the junkyard
and installed (numbers matched, original was bad), holds vacuum. New
PCV valve and grommet (tight fit).

3. Just to be sure, temporarily disabled the EGR system by unplugging
the EGR valve and EGR solenoid, no change in idle. I wanted to do
this because the backpressure line from the vacuum regulator to the
exhaust manifold is broken, but I am pretty sure that just means that
that the vacuum regulator is not varying the vacuum signal to the EGR
valve, but the effect to the EGR system is unknown to me (no vacuum,
full vacuum?, passed NJ state emissions regardless).

4. Inspected the vane meter to intake tube for pinholes and cracks,
etc., none found.

Unless I missed another vacuum subsystem (A/C?), it seems like I
eliminated all of the vacuum lines as a possible source of unmetered
air.

5. Installed a remanufactured vane meter I found in the junkyard,
picked up real cheap. No change in idle.

6. Installed a new coolant temp sensor, no change in idle.

7. Replaced IAC solenoid and TP sensor last year, no change in idle.

8. I sprayed some carb gumout on the injectors while the engine was
running, no increase in idle, but IMO not really convinced if this
would prove anything (i.e., whether or not the injector O-rings are
bad).

9. Fuel pressure checks out OK with the engine running and key off at
35 PSI.

10. Checked the upper manifold to lower manifold bolts, throttle body
bolts, all tight.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

Back to top
ledpeddle
Guest





Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 5:20 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

"Matt" <sleepdog@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:5d04a07a.0411281317.10bf8ad6@posting.google.com...
Quote:
Hello,

Pulling KOEO codes 41, 42, 65 and 86, lean condition, no EGO
switching, etc. all likely related to the same problem, unmetered air.

I think I have covered most of the bases here... with the engine base
timing at 10d bdc and the throttle set up to ~1000 rpm with IAC
unplugged, when I plug the IAC back in the car idles at ~2000 rpm (the
spout connector is also back in). Because I find 2000 rpms annoying
at a stop, I have been setting the throttle plate adjustment out of
spec to keep the idle down to 1500 rpms, which I find at least
bearable.

The only next step I can think of is pulling the fuel rail out and
installing new O-Rings, rubber fittings, etc. on the original
injectors. Replacing them is too expensive ($200+), and from what I
read in this ng, highly likely a waste of money.

I have been stumped for a while on this, but here is a summary of my
findings, looking for input on where to go next.

1. Temporarily plugged up the accessory manifold vacuum line on the
intake manifold (cuts off the cruise control, brake power assist), no
change in idle. The fuel regulator and line holds vacuum, no air
leaking.

2. Temporarily plugged up the PCV intake on the throttle body, no
change in idle. Picked up a working canp solenoid from the junkyard
and installed (numbers matched, original was bad), holds vacuum. New
PCV valve and grommet (tight fit).

3. Just to be sure, temporarily disabled the EGR system by unplugging
the EGR valve and EGR solenoid, no change in idle. I wanted to do
this because the backpressure line from the vacuum regulator to the
exhaust manifold is broken, but I am pretty sure that just means that
that the vacuum regulator is not varying the vacuum signal to the EGR
valve, but the effect to the EGR system is unknown to me (no vacuum,
full vacuum?, passed NJ state emissions regardless).

4. Inspected the vane meter to intake tube for pinholes and cracks,
etc., none found.

Unless I missed another vacuum subsystem (A/C?), it seems like I
eliminated all of the vacuum lines as a possible source of unmetered
air.

5. Installed a remanufactured vane meter I found in the junkyard,
picked up real cheap. No change in idle.

6. Installed a new coolant temp sensor, no change in idle.

7. Replaced IAC solenoid and TP sensor last year, no change in idle.

8. I sprayed some carb gumout on the injectors while the engine was
running, no increase in idle, but IMO not really convinced if this
would prove anything (i.e., whether or not the injector O-rings are
bad).

9. Fuel pressure checks out OK with the engine running and key off at
35 PSI.

10. Checked the upper manifold to lower manifold bolts, throttle body
bolts, all tight.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

Hi Matt The iac will control the idle. I did how evr noticed you did change
this part but it could be faulty. Have you checked your sensor in the
exhaust? This might be another problem.
Back to top
Matt
Guest





Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 9:13 pm    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

"ledpeddle" <gtscj2002@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:<cXtqd.2762$kI6.209655@news20.bellglobal.com>...

Quote:
Hi Matt The iac will control the idle. I did how evr noticed you did change
this part but it could be faulty. Have you checked your sensor in the
exhaust? This might be another problem.

I replaced the EGO earlier this year. I don't think it is the IAC,
the idle speed is the same with it plugged or unplugged into the ECA.

I am considering pulling the injectors and installing new O-rings,
test resistance, etc., but might also pull the upper manifold off to
look for cracks. Makes it easier to work on the injectors, too.

I was also considering the coil and ignition module as possible
culprits, but not sure that these components could increase the idle
speed.

Thanks for the reply,
Matt

Back to top
Backyard Mechanic
Guest





Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 9:37 pm    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

1. unplugging and seeing idle NOT CHANGE tends to show that MAY be the
problem!

- I'm referring not to not just the solenoid itself, but also to the valve it
controls,
- with IAC valve removed from throttle body, plug the passages and see if
idle changes

- take it apart and clean the carbon gunk out of it before you dismantle the
topside of your engine
and remove solenoid from valve, leave plugged in and see if solenoid moves


2. Coil and ignition parts dont affect idle if engine is otherwise running
smoothly

3. The O2 sensor is NOT likely the problem

Suggest also reviewing your engine 101 then go to the library and read Probst
on Fuel injection.

Matt opined in news:5d04a07a.0411290813.6f80c841@posting.google.com:

Quote:
"ledpeddle" <gtscj2002@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:<cXtqd.2762$kI6.209655@news20.bellglobal.com>...

Hi Matt The iac will control the idle. I did how evr noticed you did
change this part but it could be faulty. Have you checked your sensor
in the exhaust? This might be another problem.

I replaced the EGO earlier this year. I don't think it is the IAC,
the idle speed is the same with it plugged or unplugged into the ECA.

I am considering pulling the injectors and installing new O-rings,
test resistance, etc., but might also pull the upper manifold off to
look for cracks. Makes it easier to work on the injectors, too.

I was also considering the coil and ignition module as possible
culprits, but not sure that these components could increase the idle
speed.

Thanks for the reply,
Matt
Back to top
ledpeddle
Guest





Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 4:15 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

"Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@Yaywho.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95B0755827A9DBkMch6d@207.115.63.158...
Quote:
1. unplugging and seeing idle NOT CHANGE tends to show that MAY be the
problem!

- I'm referring not to not just the solenoid itself, but also to the valve
it
controls,
- with IAC valve removed from throttle body, plug the passages and see if
idle changes

- take it apart and clean the carbon gunk out of it before you dismantle
the
topside of your engine
and remove solenoid from valve, leave plugged in and see if solenoid moves


2. Coil and ignition parts dont affect idle if engine is otherwise running
smoothly

3. The O2 sensor is NOT likely the problem

Suggest also reviewing your engine 101 then go to the library and read
Probst
on Fuel injection.

Matt opined in news:5d04a07a.0411290813.6f80c841@posting.google.com:

"ledpeddle" <gtscj2002@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:<cXtqd.2762$kI6.209655@news20.bellglobal.com>...

Hi Matt The iac will control the idle. I did how evr noticed you did
change this part but it could be faulty. Have you checked your sensor
in the exhaust? This might be another problem.

I replaced the EGO earlier this year. I don't think it is the IAC,
the idle speed is the same with it plugged or unplugged into the ECA.

I am considering pulling the injectors and installing new O-rings,
test resistance, etc., but might also pull the upper manifold off to
look for cracks. Makes it easier to work on the injectors, too.

Doesn't the car stall when you unplug the Iac? I tried it and thats what

happens I think yours Matt is faulty or pluged try anonther one.
Back to top
Backyard Mechanic
Guest





Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:41 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

ledpeddle opined in news:e4Oqd.6868$kI6.541122@news20.bellglobal.com:

Quote:
"Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@Yaywho.com> wrote in message
news:Xns95B0755827A9DBkMch6d@207.115.63.158...
1. unplugging and seeing idle NOT CHANGE tends to show that MAY be the
problem!

- I'm referring not to not just the solenoid itself, but also to the
valve it
controls,
- with IAC valve removed from throttle body, plug the passages and see
if idle changes


Quote:
Doesn't the car stall when you unplug the Iac? I tried it and thats
what
happens I think yours Matt is faulty or pluged try anonther one.



Maybe I didnt make myself clear... IF there is another vacuum leak,
unplugging the IAC solenoid would not change the idle speed as it would close
down anyway to try to throttle down.

HOWEVER.. if the valve is stuck, then unplugging it wouldnt prove anything
either. The ONLY way to rule that out is to remove the valve itself and plug
the passages... especially the one on the engine side of the throttle.
Back to top
Matt
Guest





Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:41 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

Hello Backyard,

As you suggested, I can try installing a blocking gasket under the IAC
to see what happens... but

I've given up on the IAC as a possible cause. I gambled on a
replacement a few months ago and no change at all in the idle
condition, so no carbon build up like the old one had. I could put
the old one back on and be in the same spot.

I can unplug the IAC and set the throttle plate to 1000 rpm, but that
results in 2000 rpm when I plug the IAC back in, so I back off the set
screw to get the idle to 1500 rpm because I find 2000 rpm at a traffic
light to be really annoying.

Maybe the IAC is getting a bad signal from the ECA, but I don't know
what the voltage range should be for a given rpm value or I would
measure it.

If there is an air leak in the charging assembly, setting the throttle
stop to 1000 rpm is probably meaningless anyway.

A tear down and inspection of the intake would only cost me the
replacement gaskets and o-rings, but I would rather skip the
self-inflicted labor if I can.

A real stumper, I wish I had a breakout box!

Thanks for the reply!
Matt

Backyard Mechanic <pettyfog@Yaywho.com> wrote in message news:<Xns95B0755827A9DBkMch6d@207.115.63.158>...
Quote:
1. unplugging and seeing idle NOT CHANGE tends to show that MAY be the
problem!

- I'm referring not to not just the solenoid itself, but also to the valve it
controls,
- with IAC valve removed from throttle body, plug the passages and see if
idle changes

- take it apart and clean the carbon gunk out of it before you dismantle the
topside of your engine
and remove solenoid from valve, leave plugged in and see if solenoid moves


2. Coil and ignition parts dont affect idle if engine is otherwise running
smoothly

3. The O2 sensor is NOT likely the problem

Suggest also reviewing your engine 101 then go to the library and read Probst
on Fuel injection.

Matt opined in news:5d04a07a.0411290813.6f80c841@posting.google.com:

"ledpeddle" <gtscj2002@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:<cXtqd.2762$kI6.209655@news20.bellglobal.com>...

Hi Matt The iac will control the idle. I did how evr noticed you did
change this part but it could be faulty. Have you checked your sensor
in the exhaust? This might be another problem.

I replaced the EGO earlier this year. I don't think it is the IAC,
the idle speed is the same with it plugged or unplugged into the ECA.

I am considering pulling the injectors and installing new O-rings,
test resistance, etc., but might also pull the upper manifold off to
look for cracks. Makes it easier to work on the injectors, too.

I was also considering the coil and ignition module as possible
culprits, but not sure that these components could increase the idle
speed.

Thanks for the reply,
Matt
Back to top
Backyard Mechanic
Guest





Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:41 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

I give up... here is what you have said... everything else deleted.

Kind of hard to follow with helpful info like this

Good Luck!

BM out.


Matt opined

Quote:

I can unplug the IAC and set the throttle plate to 1000 rpm, but that
results in 2000 rpm when I plug the IAC back in, so I back off the set
screw to get the idle to 1500 rpm because I find 2000 rpm at a traffic
light to be really annoying.


Quote:



I replaced the EGO earlier this year. I don't think it is the IAC,
the idle speed is the same with it plugged or unplugged into the ECA.
Back to top
Matt
Guest





Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:41 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

Does anyone know if there is a vacuum connection to the A/C apparatus
on this vehicle? If so, what/where does it tap into on or near the
engine?

Thanks!
Matt

sleepdog@optonline.net (Matt) wrote in message news:<5d04a07a.0411281317.10bf8ad6@posting.google.com>...
Quote:
Hello,

Pulling KOEO codes 41, 42, 65 and 86, lean condition, no EGO
switching, etc. all likely related to the same problem, unmetered air.

I think I have covered most of the bases here... with the engine base
timing at 10d bdc and the throttle set up to ~1000 rpm with IAC
unplugged, when I plug the IAC back in the car idles at ~2000 rpm (the
spout connector is also back in). Because I find 2000 rpms annoying
at a stop, I have been setting the throttle plate adjustment out of
spec to keep the idle down to 1500 rpms, which I find at least
bearable.

The only next step I can think of is pulling the fuel rail out and
installing new O-Rings, rubber fittings, etc. on the original
injectors. Replacing them is too expensive ($200+), and from what I
read in this ng, highly likely a waste of money.

I have been stumped for a while on this, but here is a summary of my
findings, looking for input on where to go next.

1. Temporarily plugged up the accessory manifold vacuum line on the
intake manifold (cuts off the cruise control, brake power assist), no
change in idle. The fuel regulator and line holds vacuum, no air
leaking.

2. Temporarily plugged up the PCV intake on the throttle body, no
change in idle. Picked up a working canp solenoid from the junkyard
and installed (numbers matched, original was bad), holds vacuum. New
PCV valve and grommet (tight fit).

3. Just to be sure, temporarily disabled the EGR system by unplugging
the EGR valve and EGR solenoid, no change in idle. I wanted to do
this because the backpressure line from the vacuum regulator to the
exhaust manifold is broken, but I am pretty sure that just means that
that the vacuum regulator is not varying the vacuum signal to the EGR
valve, but the effect to the EGR system is unknown to me (no vacuum,
full vacuum?, passed NJ state emissions regardless).

4. Inspected the vane meter to intake tube for pinholes and cracks,
etc., none found.

Unless I missed another vacuum subsystem (A/C?), it seems like I
eliminated all of the vacuum lines as a possible source of unmetered
air.

5. Installed a remanufactured vane meter I found in the junkyard,
picked up real cheap. No change in idle.

6. Installed a new coolant temp sensor, no change in idle.

7. Replaced IAC solenoid and TP sensor last year, no change in idle.

8. I sprayed some carb gumout on the injectors while the engine was
running, no increase in idle, but IMO not really convinced if this
would prove anything (i.e., whether or not the injector O-rings are
bad).

9. Fuel pressure checks out OK with the engine running and key off at
35 PSI.

10. Checked the upper manifold to lower manifold bolts, throttle body
bolts, all tight.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Matt
Back to top
Matt
Guest





Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

Yes, the car should stall, but only after 120 seconds or so, depending
on your model. The 120 seconds is the time you are given to adjust
your throttle stop screw. That is according to my emissions decal
idle set procedure.

The one I have is only a few months old, when I replaced the old one
with it the same high idle condition has persisted to the present day.
They are about $65 so I already wasted that I don't want to again.
If there is something wrong with the IAC it is probably the signal it
is getting from the ECA, I just don't know yet.

I am going to try some carb gumout on the throttle body near the
butterfly valve, maybe air is getting in there. I was thinking about
the propane experiment mentioned in this ng, but not sure if that is
really safe.

"ledpeddle" <gtscj2002@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:<e4Oqd.6868
Quote:

Doesn't the car stall when you unplug the Iac? I tried it and thats what
happens I think yours Matt is faulty or pluged try anonther one.
Back to top
Matt
Guest





Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 8:10 pm    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

I see what I did...

To explain, I have had this problem for over a year now but I have
always been able to run the car at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes, unplug the
IAC, set the throttle stop to 1000, plug the IAC back in. This is all
per procedure on the emissions decal. I can still set the throttle
screw using this procedure and just did it the other day.

Which was also when I was checking again for any possible source of
air leaks, malfuctions, etc., and one of the quick tests I performed
was unplugging the IAC at some random time when the engine was
running. On this one occasion there was no change in the idle speed.
Not sure why this was, maybe I plugged it back in before it could
drop.

Regardless, the IAC plugged in is adding 1000 rpm to the idle speed,
which I am thinking could be either a percieved increase due to an air
leak elsewhere, or a real increase because the IAC is getting a bad
signal.

I've already gambled on a new part and the same symptoms exist with
the old one, so I am not thinking the unit itself is bad.

Thanks!
Matt


Backyard Mechanic <pettyfog@Yaywho.com> wrote in message news:<Xns95B0DD988F286BkMch6d@207.115.63.158>...
Quote:
I give up... here is what you have said... everything else deleted.

Kind of hard to follow with helpful info like this

Good Luck!

BM out.


Matt opined


I can unplug the IAC and set the throttle plate to 1000 rpm, but that
results in 2000 rpm when I plug the IAC back in, so I back off the set
screw to get the idle to 1500 rpm because I find 2000 rpm at a traffic
light to be really annoying.





I replaced the EGO earlier this year. I don't think it is the IAC,
the idle speed is the same with it plugged or unplugged into the ECA.
Back to top
ledpeddle
Guest





Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:13 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

"Matt" <sleepdog@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:5d04a07a.0411291902.1a61f5be@posting.google.com...
Quote:
Does anyone know if there is a vacuum connection to the A/C apparatus
on this vehicle? If so, what/where does it tap into on or near the
engine?

Thanks!
Matt

sleepdog@optonline.net (Matt) wrote in message
news:<5d04a07a.0411281317.10bf8ad6@posting.google.com>...
Hello,

Pulling KOEO codes 41, 42, 65 and 86, lean condition, no EGO
switching, etc. all likely related to the same problem, unmetered air.

I think I have covered most of the bases here... with the engine base
timing at 10d bdc and the throttle set up to ~1000 rpm with IAC
unplugged, when I plug the IAC back in the car idles at ~2000 rpm (the
spout connector is also back in). Because I find 2000 rpms annoying
at a stop, I have been setting the throttle plate adjustment out of
spec to keep the idle down to 1500 rpms, which I find at least
bearable.

The only next step I can think of is pulling the fuel rail out and
installing new O-Rings, rubber fittings, etc. on the original
injectors. Replacing them is too expensive ($200+), and from what I
read in this ng, highly likely a waste of money.

I have been stumped for a while on this, but here is a summary of my
findings, looking for input on where to go next.

1. Temporarily plugged up the accessory manifold vacuum line on the
intake manifold (cuts off the cruise control, brake power assist), no
change in idle. The fuel regulator and line holds vacuum, no air
leaking.

2. Temporarily plugged up the PCV intake on the throttle body, no
change in idle. Picked up a working canp solenoid from the junkyard
and installed (numbers matched, original was bad), holds vacuum. New
PCV valve and grommet (tight fit).

3. Just to be sure, temporarily disabled the EGR system by unplugging
the EGR valve and EGR solenoid, no change in idle. I wanted to do
this because the backpressure line from the vacuum regulator to the
exhaust manifold is broken, but I am pretty sure that just means that
that the vacuum regulator is not varying the vacuum signal to the EGR
valve, but the effect to the EGR system is unknown to me (no vacuum,
full vacuum?, passed NJ state emissions regardless).

4. Inspected the vane meter to intake tube for pinholes and cracks,
etc., none found.

Unless I missed another vacuum subsystem (A/C?), it seems like I
eliminated all of the vacuum lines as a possible source of unmetered
air.

5. Installed a remanufactured vane meter I found in the junkyard,
picked up real cheap. No change in idle.

6. Installed a new coolant temp sensor, no change in idle.

7. Replaced IAC solenoid and TP sensor last year, no change in idle.

8. I sprayed some carb gumout on the injectors while the engine was
running, no increase in idle, but IMO not really convinced if this
would prove anything (i.e., whether or not the injector O-rings are
bad).

9. Fuel pressure checks out OK with the engine running and key off at
35 PSI.

10. Checked the upper manifold to lower manifold bolts, throttle body
bolts, all tight.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Matt

Hey Matt did you check your EGR it might cause this also check your pcv it
may be plugged. Try resetting the computer and see what happens. I would
think the EGO sensor is faulty. Mine, when its cold revs almost 2,000 rpm
and then drops to below 1,000 I would tend to think that that is the problem
telling the motor to rev. It is probaly saying the motor is cold all the
time. So the computer keeps it reving high. look up in google for the way to
test your EGO sensor there is a way with a meter. Also the air charge sensor
maybe it bad.
Back to top
Matt
Guest





Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 8:07 pm    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

"ledpeddle" <gtscj2002@yahoo.ca> wrote in message news:<t08rd.17431>
Quote:
Hey Matt did you check your EGR it might cause this also check your pcv it
may be plugged. Try resetting the computer and see what happens. I would
think the EGO sensor is faulty. Mine, when its cold revs almost 2,000 rpm
and then drops to below 1,000 I would tend to think that that is the problem
telling the motor to rev. It is probaly saying the motor is cold all the
time. So the computer keeps it reving high. look up in google for the way to
test your EGO sensor there is a way with a meter. Also the air charge sensor
maybe it bad.

I installed a new pcv and grommet, tight fit and the valve is working.
I cut off the pcv intake to the throttle body using a rubber cap, no
change in idle.

In fact, I cut off all of the vacuum intakes to the throttle body or
intake manifold: accessory vacuum, egr, pcv... no change.

I gambled on a new ego earlier this year, same codes, same condition
are present. Also put in a reman vane meter I picked from the
junkyard, no change.

I am thinking that this is a non-EEC-IV problem, but not sure how to
go about limiting my liability of a complete tear down and rebuild of
the whole air charging assembly. I would rather find the problem
first before I start taking more stuff apart. Replacing the ECT on
the rear heater tube was bad enough.

I am at the point of considering the propane method suggested by
backyard.

Thanks,
Matt
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Backyard Mechanic
Guest





Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 8:09 pm    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

Matt opined

Quote:

I am at the point of considering the propane method suggested by
backyard.

It wont "blow up"... just use it outside, light the torch adjust for medium
non-blowing flame, then snuff it out.
Back to top
Matt
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2004 12:57 am    Post subject: Re: HELP! - 1990 Escort GT Idle High at 2000 rpm Reply with quote

Being propane, would this increase the idle of the car if it finds its
way into the intake, or would it cause the idle to decrease? I had to
break out the propane torch to heat up the heater tube to get the old
ECT out, so it is still within sight of the toolbox...

Backyard Mechanic <pettyfog@Yaywho.com> wrote in message news:<Xns95B26679DADFBkMch6d@207.115.63.158>...
Quote:
Matt opined


I am at the point of considering the propane method suggested by
backyard.

It wont "blow up"... just use it outside, light the torch adjust for medium
non-blowing flame, then snuff it out.
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