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[Guy King]

The message <O8NJe.4391$6d4.488459@news20.bellglobal.com>
from "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> contains these words:

[Guy King]

The message <1_646236_5b0bfe3442075dac315bfeb5d1200980@autoforumz.com>
from patty <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> contains these words:

[Steve Sears]

Pat,
Your theories may be valid, but IME with broken wires in the driver's door,
even a wire between the window switches and the window motor will not catch
the insulation on fire if holding on by a single strand. Sure, there will
be arcing and all sorts of funny errant current in the car's electrical
systems when there are broken wires - as shown in many Type 44's when a
license plate bulb burns out and the dash lights don't come on, or type 43's
where corrosion in the turn signal housing causes the dash lights to flash -
but I dare say that I have yet to hear about a single car burning up because
of broken wires in the trunk lid or door jambs. The Bose speaker fires were
something different - involving the failure of components of the amplifier
which was mounted the rear speakers. See:
http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/radio.html
You can also see the response of Audi (of America)...or, rather, non
response. They dragged their heels on the issue while companies like Nissan
recalled their Bose equipped cars. Look at the pictures - now that's a
fire!!!....but it doesn't have anything to do with work-hardened wires.
My suggestion is that if you have a good light bulb in the car that won't
come on, or an electrical feature that doesn't get power - it's time to dig
out the multimeter and a set of good crimping tools and check the hinge
areas of all doors and the trunk lid. Use the Bentley Manual wiring
diagrams to help you trace things. Remember that if it's something like a
sunroof motor that's away from the doors, it may still be powered through
the driver's door jamb.
If you spent $$$+ buying an Audi wiring harness......well......the money's
spent - don't expect Audi to comp you a harness or two.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

"patty" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_646236_5b0bfe3442075dac315bfeb5d1200980@autoforumz.com...

[Courtney Thomas]

Being inexperienced, I am now confused as to which way to go, i.e.......

If I have to remove the axle/CV joint at all, it seems to me to just
simply replace w/original type boots.

Else, it seems the stretchy boots are the labor easy way to go.

I'm in the U.S. so I assume importing the stetchies will be expensive, so....
since I can replace both R&L half shaft assemblies for a total of $125,
what do you think I should do ?

There was no noticeable driving disturbance with the existing CV joints.
It's only that I noticed the front left inner boot and the front right
outer boots were ruptured.

The car has over 1/3 million miles on it and still runs great and I want
to keep it, but need to learn how to fix things :-)

Suggestions for how to remove/reinstall the CV joints would be
appreciated, too.

Thanks to all, again, for their generosity,

Courtney

[Guy King]

The message <pan.2005.08.11.03.53.07.386422@earthlink.net>
from Courtney Thomas <cc.thomas@earthlink.net> contains these words:

[Steve Sears]

Auldman,
If you'd consider used, try www.car-part.com
If you're in North America, that is.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

"Auldman" <chriscu@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1123705741.020113.206600@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

[mdaudisdb]

I have the EXACT SAME problem with my 95 90 2.8L V6 and its driving me
crazy. I was convinced (without pulling the codes of corse) that I needed
a new O2 sensor- one of them has 111K on it. Is this not the problem? Id
hate to spend that loot if I dont have to.

[mdaudisdb]

I forgot to mention, regarding the same problem on my 95 90 2.8L V6, that
the problem does not happen all the time.
Supposing I wake up in the morning and decide to go for a drive. I
start the car, and she runs just fine for about 10-15 minutes, sometimes
more, sometimes less. then it starts.
Lets say while on my drive I decide to go to the store. I painstakingly
make it up the hill, pull in and shut the car off. If Im in the store for a
half hour and return to my car, I start it up, and she runs fine for 5 or
10 minutes, sometime more, sometimes less.
In fact, Yesterday I made a 45 minute drive (highway and city driving)
without a single problem. Unfortunately my my total trip was just over an
hour, and just before the hour mark the problem began again.
PLEASE HELP ME- is this happening to anyone else?
I need to fix it before I go nuts.

[howard]

After washing my 1999 Audi A3, i too noticed small rust bubbles on each side of the roof channels. I was obviously very surprised as i have owned much older audi's in the past that have stayed completely rust free. I am in the process of getting this looked at, and i hope this will be covered by Audi's 12 year Anti Corrosion Warenty..
Will let you know the result.

--
howard

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[andy]

Thanx to Stephen and Tony for help in removing the instrument cluster. Now I
can't find the relay. Does anyone know if it is plugged into the rear of the
cluster? or is it buried under wraps behind the cluster. Thanx in advance.
Andy

[OPSMAN]

My 99 a4 quattro just hit 84000 and the rear pass side bearing screams like
a beat monkey. I found the bearing for 44$ which is not bad. But now I'm
having problems finding the 9/16 size hex bit to do the job with. What a
pain. I love the car. But I tell ya I think I"m going back to a jeep.
Cheap and easy!