alternator circuit question
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alternator circuit question
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Steve
Guest





Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 11:08 pm    Post subject: Re: alternator circuit question Reply with quote

Jon G. wrote:

Quote:
This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass a faulty
computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at 14 volts for
about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts.

Of course it WORKS, but only if a bad regulator was the original problem.

You've most likely got a bad alternator rotor (shorting to ground) which
causes an over-charge condition. The regulator is on the GROUND side of
the rotor, so if the rotor is shorted to ground the regulator has
absolutely zero effect on the charge current.

Back to top
Eightupman
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

I remember this post. Did you in fact follow his advice, and it caused
problems...or did you follow his advice incorrectly and it caused problems??
I don't understand why you claim....a SCAM??? Did he in fact take money
from your wallet?? Did you send him some cash in thanks for his advice??

I'm confused. 98% of the people here either 1.) have a problem that needs
to be corrected, or 2.) give advice as to how to fix it. Arm chair
trooubleshooting is not that easy, and I do not pass out information that I
am unsure of. It is up to YOU whether or not the advice you take is sound.
Not following the whole scam thing......

Sounds to me DJS is not to blame for giving out advice on a forum that will
in fact do nothing to benefit him, but you for taking it, or taking it
wrong.

Here's something you could try. Unfasten all of the electrical terminals in
the charging system one by one, and then lick each one before reinstalling
them. This will mysteriouly solve all your problems..........

Or you could just change the computer.

jest my $.02

Eightupman


"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:3v5zd.908$qf5.677@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Quote:
The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several voltage
regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood" on more than a
supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous, and is convincing enough
to come across as someone who knows what he's talking about. I'd advise
anyone to steer clear of him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====


On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.


The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator


L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.


What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.


etc

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.
Back to top
Jon G.
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 7:51 am    Post subject: Scam Reply with quote

The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====


On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

Quote:
I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.


The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

Quote:
there are 4 connections on the alternator


Quote:
L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.


What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

Quote:
I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.


<etc>

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.

Back to top
Daniel J. Stern
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004, Jon G. wrote:

Quote:
The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several voltage
regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood" on more than a
supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous, and is convincing
enough to come across as someone who knows what he's talking about.
I'd advise anyone to steer clear of him. Below is his reply to my
previous post:

Sure, fine, whatever, Jon. It didn't work for you 'cause you failed to
diagnose your problem correctly, but rather than do so, you'd rather futz
around with TV resistors and other bubblegum-and-duct-tape fixes.

I've been here in this forum for well over a decade, and have owned a
great many Mopars, and -- here's the fun part, Jon -- the external
voltage regulator fix has worked for a great many people who took the
time to diagnose their systems correctly and do the work right.

Your laziness is nobody's fault but your own.

Toodles,

DS
Back to top
maxpower
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 4:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

Always try to steer away from modifications and seek out the problem. By
modifing an electrical system to work may be ok, but you never no where the
broken part of the circuit is, it may be a loose or corroded wire that
could cause other problems, But how can you bad mouth/insult someone on
here that is trying to help you out, the people here can not see the
vehicle, they try to give assisitance due to past experience or because
thats the profession of the person,
Maybe Mom needs to place a Haynes manual under your tree? any way Merry Xmas
Glenn Beasley
Chysler Tech
"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:3v5zd.908$qf5.677@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
Quote:
The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====


On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.


The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator


L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.


What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.


etc

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.
Back to top
aarcuda69062
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 7:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

In article <3v5zd.908$qf5.677@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net>,
"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote:

Quote:
The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====

More like; you haven't a clue how that charging system works.

I've been doing that repair since before your car was new, and it
-does- work. It's saved many people hundreds of dollars in
avoiding having to replace Power Modules, SMECs and SBECs because
one little internal circuit gave up the ghost.
Back to top
Daniel J. Stern
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 9:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004, Eightupman wrote:

Quote:
Sounds to me DJS is not to blame for giving out advice on a forum that
will in fact do nothing to benefit him, but you for taking it, or taking
it wrong. Here's something you could try. Unfasten all of the
electrical terminals in the charging system one by one, and then lick
each one before reinstalling them. This will mysteriouly solve all your
problems.......... Or you could just change the computer.

Eightupman: Betchya a virtual beer that even if our cheapskate buddy Jon
goes on www.car-part.com (searchable used auto parts nationwide) and finds
a good used computer for a price he'll pay, his faulty alternator will
cook the voltage regulator inside the new used computer in short order.

DS
Back to top
Jim Thompson
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 9:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004 03:53:35 GMT, "Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com>
wrote:

Quote:
The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
him. Below is his reply to my previous post:

=====

[snip]


You ignorance far exceeds the reference standard... you are hereby
presented with a Burridge Award with Gold-Leaf Cluster, and a special
addition for today, since it's Christmas, PLONK!

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Back to top
Daniel J. Stern
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 10:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

brown,
about 6 minutes on each side.



Shish Kababes

As old as the hills, this technique has employed seafood, beef, pork, lamb,
poultry, and vegetables; just about anything can be grilled, and young humans
are no exception!

High quality marinade (Teriyaki and garlic perhaps)
1 inch cubes of tender meat, preferably from the nursery
Onions
bell peppers
Wooden or metal skewers

Marinate the meat overnight.
Get the grill good and hot while placing meat, vegetables, and
fruit such as pineapples or cherries on the skewers.
Don?t be afraid to use a variety of meats.
Grill to medium rare,
serve with garlic cous-cous and sautéed asparagus.
Coffee and sherbet for desert then walnuts, cheese, and port.
Cigars for the gentlemen (and ladies if they so desire)!



Crock-Pot Crack Baby

When the quivering, hopelessly addicted crack baby succumbs to death,
get him immediately butchered and into the crock-pot, so that any
remaining toxins will not be fatal. But don?t cook it too long,
because like Blowfish, there is a perfect medium between the poisonous
and the stimulating. Though it may not have the s
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Daniel J. Stern
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 10:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

together
then poke holes in top.
Return to oven and bake for 30 minutes, or until pie crust is golden brown.



Sudden Infant Death Soup

SIDS: delicious in winter, comparable to old fashioned Beef and Vegetable Soup.
Its free, you can sell the crib, baby clothes, toys, stroller... and so easy to
procure if such a lucky find is at hand (just pick him up from the crib and
he?s good to go)!

SIDS victim, cleaned
½ cup cooking oil
Carrots
onions
broccoli
whole cabbage
fresh green beans
potato
turnip
celery
tomato
½ stick butter
1 cup cooked pasta (macaroni, shells, etc.)

Remove as much meat as possible, cube, and brown in hot oil.
Add a little water, season, then add the carcass.
Simmer for half an hour keeping the stock thick.
Remove the carcass and add the vegetables slowly to the stock,
so that it remains boiling the whole time.
Cover the pot and simmer till vegetables are tender
(2 hours approximately).
Continue seasoning to taste.
Before serving, add butter and pasta,
serve piping with hot bread and butter.



Offspring Rolls

Similar to Vietnamese style fried rolls, they have
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maxpower
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 11:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

cold water) to the sauce.
You are just about there, Pour the sauce over the cutlets,
top with parsley, lemon slices and cracked pepper.
Serve with spinach salad, macaroni and cheese (homemade) and iced tea...



Spaghetti with Real Italian Meatballs

If you don?t have an expendable bambino on hand,
you can use a pound of ground pork instead.
The secret to great meatballs, is to use very lean meat.

1 lb. ground flesh; human or pork
3 lb. ground beef
1 cup finely chopped onions
7 - 12 cloves garlic
1 cup seasoned bread crumbs
½ cup milk, 2 eggs
Oregano
basil
salt
pepper
Italian seasoning, etc.
Tomato gravy (see index)
Fresh or at least freshly cooked spaghetti or other pasta

Mix the ground meats together in a large bowl,
then mix each of the other ingredients.
Make balls about the size of a baby?s fist
(there should be one lying around for reference).
Bake at 400°for about 25 minutes -
or you could fry them in olive oil.
Place the meatballs in the tomato gravy, and simmer for several hours.
Serve on spaghetti.
Accompany with green salad, garlic bread and red wine.



Newborn Parmesan

This classic Sicilian cuisine can easily be turned into Eggplant Parmesan
If you are planning a vegetarian meal. Or you could just as well use veal -
after all, you have to be careful - Sicilians are touchy about their young
family members...

6 newborn or veal cutlets
Tomato gravy (see index)
4 cups mozzarella, 1cup parmesan, 1cup romano
Seasoned bread crumbs mixed with
parm
Back to top
Daniel J. Stern
Guest





Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 11:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

substituted for this classic holiday feast.
Although time consuming, this dish seems to take longer than it actually does;
as the entire house is filled with such a heavenly aroma,
the waiting becomes almost unbearable.

1 whole child, cleaned and de-headed
1 batch cornbread stuffing (see index)
½ cup melted butter

Remove the giblets from the infant and set aside.
Stuff the cavity where the child?s genitals and anus were located
using ½ cup per pound of meat.
Tie the arms flat to the body, then pull the skin flaps up to close the cavity.
Now tie the thighs up tight to hold it all together.
Place breast side up in a large metal roasting pan.
Bake in 325° oven covered for 2 hours.
Remove cover, stick a cooking thermometer deep into one of the
baby?s buttocks and cook uncovered till thermometer reads 190°,
about another hour.



Pro-Choice Po-Boy

Soft-shelled crabs serve just as well in this classic southern delicacy.
The sandwich originated in New Orleans, where an abundance of abortion clinics
thrive and hot French bread is always available.

2 cleaned fetuses, head on
2 eggs
1 tablespoon yellow mustard
1 cup seasoned flour
oil enough for deep frying
1 loaf French bread
Lettuce
tomatoes
mayonnaise, etc.

Marinate the fetuses in the egg-mustard mixture.
Dredge thoroughly in flour.
Fry at 375° until crispy golden brown.
Remove and place on paper towels.



Holiday Youngster

One can easily adapt this recipe to ham, though as presented,
it violates no religious taboos against swine.

1 large toddler or small child, cleaned and de-headed
Kentucky Bourb
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Jim Thompson
Guest





Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2004 12:16 am    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

26: 1,2
[...else...]

Ye shall eat the flesh of your sons, and the flesh of your daughters ye shall eat.
Leviticus 26:29


Roast Child with Cornbread Stuffing

Turkey may be substituted for this classic holiday feast.
Although time consuming, this dish seems to take longer than it actually does;
as the entire house is filled with such a heavenly aroma,
the waiting becomes almost unbearable.

1 whole child, cleaned and de-headed
1 batch cornbread stuffing (see index)
½ cup melted butter

Remove the giblets from the infant and set aside.
Stuff the cavity where the child?s genitals and anus were located
using ½ cup per pound of meat.
Tie the arms flat to the body, then pull the skin flaps up to close the cavity.
Now tie the thighs up tight to hold it all together.
Place breast side up in a large metal roasting pan.
Bake in 325° oven covered for 2 hours.
Remove cover, stick a cooking thermometer deep into one of the
baby?s buttocks and cook uncovered till thermometer reads 190°,
about another hour.



Pro-Choice Po-Boy

Soft-shelled crabs serve just as well in this classic southern delicacy.
The sandwich
Back to top
Jamie
Guest





Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2004 1:28 am    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

yearling, or the
morticians occasional horror: a small miracle stopped short by a
drunk driver, or the innocent victim of a drive-by shooting...

2 cups finely chopped very young human flesh
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 cup bean sprouts
5 sprigs green onion, finely chopped
5 cloves minced garlic
4-6 ounces bamboo shoots
Sherry
chicken broth
oil for deep frying (1 gallon)
Salt
pepper
soy & teriyaki
minced ginger, etc.
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water
1 egg beaten

Make the stuffing:
Marinate the flesh in a mixture of soy and teriyaki sauces
then stir fry in hot oil for till brown - about 1 minute, remove.
Stir-fry the vegetables.
Put the meat back into the wok and adjust the seasoning.
De-glaze with sherry, cooking off the alcohol.
Add broth (optional) cook a few more minutes.
Add the cornstarch, cook a few minutes till thick,
then place the stuffing into a colander and cool;
2 hours
Wrap the rolls:
Place 3 tablespoons of stuffing in the wrap, roll tightly -
corner nearest you first, fold 2 side corners in,
wrap till remaining corner is left.
Brush with egg, seal, and allow to sit on the seal for
a few minutes.
Fry the rolls:
325° if using egg roll wraps, 350° for spring roll wraps.
Deep fry in peanut oil till crispy golden brown, drain on paper towels.



Lemon Neonate

Turkey serves just as well, and in fact even looks a bit like a
Back to top
Eightupman
Guest





Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2004 1:41 am    Post subject: Re: Scam Reply with quote

into the boiling water and cover.
Boil till meat comes off easily with a fork.



Oven-Baked Baby-Back Ribs

Beef ribs or pork ribs can be used in this recipe,
and that is exactly what your dinner guests will assume!
An excellent way to expose the uninitiated to this highly misunderstood
yet succulent source of protein.

2 human baby rib racks
3 cups barbecue sauce or honey glaze (see index)
Salt
black pepper
white pepper
paprika

Remove the silverskin by loosening from the edges,
then stripping off.
Season generously, rubbing the mixture into the baby?s flesh.
Place 1 quart water in a baking pan, the meat on a wire rack.
Bake uncovered in 250° oven for 1½ hours.
When browned, remove and glaze,
return to oven and bake 20 minutes more to form a glaze.
Cut ribs into individual pieces and serve with extra sauce.



Fresh Sausage

If it becomes necessary to hide the fact that you are eating
human babies, this is the perfect solution.
But if you are still paranoid, you can substitute pork butt.

5 lb. lean chuck roast
3 lb. prime baby butt
2 tablespoons each:
salt
black, white and cayenne peppers
celery salt
garlic powder
parsley flakes
brown sugar
1 teaspoon sage
2 onions
6 cloves garlic
bunch green onions, chopped

Cut the children?s butts and the beef roast into pieces
that will fit in the grinder.
Run the meat through using a 3/16 grinding plate.
A
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