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[tom]

to rule out the front of the car, I would jump the starter. there should be
a small wire connected to the solenoid. hook a temporary wire to it, and
bring it up to the top of the car. hook up the battery, then touch the wire
to the pos post of the battery. if the motor starts to crank over, the
starter, grounds, and pos wire are good. then turn the key on, and see if it
starts with the wire to the battery .if this works, I would then check the
ignition switch.
<ssc@remove_me.copelandelectronics.com> wrote in message
news:oeJFd.95023$mA3.74162@fe2.columbus.rr.com...

[Guest]

Ok, the weather finally broke (for one day...back to an inch of snow today).
This is where I managed to get through. I got the engine to turn over by
shorting the starter directly to the battery. I didn't try moving the key
to start yet, but hope to give it a shot tomorrow. On the plus side, the
new starter and battery turn the engine over very nicely.

Thanks for everyone's help so far. I'll try to keep updating...hopefully at
a better pace as the weather improves.

Scott

[Guest]

Ok, I get a little further and a little further...then the weather hits
again. First I need to correct what Terry caught. I don't have the "412".
There were 389's (which it turns out is what I have) and the 420. Once upon
a time, I used to have all of that off the top of my head. I think early
senility is getting to me...lol. I am still doing my homework on this...and
getting my head back into the mechanics of things. I love every second of
it.

I jumpered the starter and she dutifully turned over...cranked nicely. I
didn't try starting her, she's sitting in a pretty tight space at the moment
without a lot of good ventilation. I may try this week if I can get
motivated to work in the cold (I need to get a heater in that garage).

I think at this point, I've been through the "easy" items to check and it is
definately time to jump under the dash and take a look. I'll probably try
to start her first (turn the key to run and jump the starter).

I have a few more questions:

1. What is the square module on the firewall behind the carb? Is that the
guy with the resistor? (I see what looks like a pair of wire wound
resistors on the back of it). I had a spare nearly new one from my old Cat,
so I replaced it as a matter of course...was going to do that regardless.

2. When I pull the ignition switch....should I turn it fully to the right
or left to get it to come loose?

Thanks for all the help everyone. I just ordered a new set of rims and
tires to get her road worthy. Once I get things up and running reliably,
I'm going over the brakes (got a bad wheel cylinder somehwhere), and do a
full tune up to get road worthy.

I'm heading to get the wife a box of roses before she sees the visa bill
this month :-P. Thanks again!

Scott

[Terry]

<ssc@remove_me.copelandelectronics.com> wrote in message
news:VraXd.1429$4k2.565@fe2.columbus.rr.com...

[Guest]

Gotta give Terry credit and deflect some of the blame at the same
time....lol. He's obviously right, I should have said "421", but I also
checked my Chilton's book (my "book of all human knowledge") and it has
"412" instead of "421" in some of the spec's. In others, they have it
right.

Yup, Pulled the battery out...I work with LOW voltage for a living and am
paranoid of anything higher. I've singed too many parts over the years.

Thanks for the ignition suggestion. I've been taking a glance at that over
the past few weeks.

Scott

[Terry]

Scott, You may want to check into getting yourself some manuals such as
these. Shop manuals specific to your Pontiac will help a lot versus
Chilton's. These links are only examples of the types you possibly would
want.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34232&item=7960940771&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7921945319&category=34232

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34232&item=7959308388&rd=1

Terry

<ssc@remove_me.copelandelectronics.com> wrote in message
news:WtOXd.3175$jW6.572@fe2.columbus.rr.com...

[Guest]

Terry,

Thanks. I already have the first one. It has been an excellent resource
for windows, body and some other parts. Not the greatest for my current
issue, but it will be EXCELLENT when I start. I'm watching the third
closely. I may grab that one.

Thanks,

Scott

[Guest]

Glad to finally see spring show up here in good old Ohio. 75 degrees,
sunny, kids both at grandparents, wife at work, and no work for me....no
sense ever playing the lottery....I'll never see a combination like this
again...lol.

To reflect on my post wayyy back when it was almost warm last...I can't get
my car to turn over. I've replaced the starter, verified it will start when
jumpering the starter to the battery (got it actually running with key in
"run" position). I've checked wiring everywhere I could and all looks good.

At this point, I've come up to two possible issues and need some basic help.

1. I assume this car has a ballast resistor, but I can't find it (measured
the coil at 1.8ohm..so should be somewhere). Anyone know where I can find
it so I can verify it's ok?

2. Anyone know if this car was equiped with a lockout? I'm not sure if
that's the term, but the switch that keeps the car from starting while in
drive or reverse.

Please copy to my email any responses. My news server has been acting lousy
recently. Thanks to everyone who's helped up to this point. As soon as I
get my act together, I'll put all my experiences up on my website for all to
look...and sometimes laugh at.

Thanks,

Scott

[Rabbit]

[v8z]

Some cars use a resistance wire instead of a ballast resistor - if so, at
some point on the wire leading to the coil there will be a split - or you
might have two hot leads at the coil. One will have redueced voltage
through the resistance wire with ignition on, and the other will have full
system voltage with the key in the start postion.
V8Z

<ssc@remove_me.copelandelectronics.com> wrote in message
news:1OG2e.602$Fh4.141@fe2.columbus.rr.com...

[Dan Crooks]

I had floor shifts in all my 60s Pontiacs.
But I do remember working on a column shift GM product. As I recall
its a adjustable spring loaded switch. When the shifter is in the park
indent, a pawl holds it in, (on) which allows the juice to flow.
When you take it out of park the spring pops the switch to off. If the
switch adjusting screw comes loose, the switch would slide away from the
pawl when you put the car in park and the car would think it was still
in gear. No start....
This is all assuming you have a column shifter. I have only paid
attention to one Executive and that one was our then Gov
Tommy Thomson's. It was at a Wis state vehicle auction and I don't
remember where the shifter was.
Time to get under the dash or pop the top of the console.
Dan
Milw

[Guest]

Dang!!!!!
I accidentally posted under my real name. Here comes the spam....
Dan
Milw

[Leon Rowell]

Makes you wish you could delete newsgroup posts don't it.... ;^)

Leon


LAIKA1@webtv.net wrote:

[Guest]

Thanks...I knew it had a name....lol.

Scott

[Guest]

Thanks V8Z. I'll try to talk the wife to hold the key in start and take
some measurements. I really think at this point that your right...its a
resistance wire. I've searched everywhere I could and if nothing else, the
voltage so far is correct at the coil...so either a wire or if it's a
resistor, it's doing what it should....I'll verify start though.

Thanks