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[Josh Assing]

Our e32 has started to overheat. It has not overheated in the past.
After about 10 minutes at idle, it's maxed out. Driving doesn't make it any
worse, or better.

There is plenty of coolant. We put a new thermostat in when we changed the
belts & seals. Is it possible that the thermostat is bad? Opening the bleed
screw does not release air.

Is there a way to test, on the car, the thermostat? In our subaru it's possible
to remove the cap, start the car, and watch the coolant be moved. In the bmw --
this doesn't seem possible.

Also; the fan clutch looks newer (ie: replaced) but still free-spun once the car
overheated. Could this cause the car to overheat this quickly?

Lastly; the car is "chipped" -- Could this possibly cause the car to overheat?
I can't see how this is possible; but that's the only non-standard thing I can
think of.

Thanks
-josh



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[John Burns]

[Josh Assing]

Thanks for the info. I'll read the book on how to bleed it properly.... I have
to replace the cowling (it's there, just a tad loose) so that would be the ideal
time to replace the fan clutch too. It should get impossible (or at least
difficult) to move when hot right? (if the engine is off).

Thanks a lot!
-josh



On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 15:02:02 +0000, John Burns <john@unixnerd.demon.co.uk>
wrote:

[Josh Assing]

OK - here's what I've done.

car was cold, turned the bleed screw, a little air came out... just a little.
Started the car, and every once in a while I'd re-open it and a little more air
would come out. the rad hose on the right-side never got warm... the left side
got hot. The radiator barely got hot on the left side; and stayed cool on teh
right.

I opened the overflow & occasionally it'd "gurgle" like steam was trying to get
past the coolant.

At this point I shut the engine down; and pulled the hose leading to the bottom
of the thermostat housing. the fluid was cool to the touch. The coolant IN the
thermastat housing was hot.

So There is coolant everywhere.... Well; more places than I'd like now.

So -- I assumed it was the thermostat... I pulled it off & tossed it boiling
water.... Let it sit there... Opens at 190, closes at 180 (that's about 87 & 82
celsius) That seems right; but maybe I need a cooler one? 75 or 72 celsius? Or
are we still thinking it's not fully bled correctly?

Sadly the aux fan never clicked on either... so I've got a second problem
there.... But I do not believe this is the cause -- mostly becuase the one side
of the radiator doesn't heat up....

Thanks.

-j

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 10:38:50 -0800, Josh Assing <Xjosh@jassing.comX> wrote:

[SharkmanBMW]

if the aux fan is not running, I believe that is the problem.

go to http://www.bimmer.info/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10
and ask there, they specialise on that engine there... this is a very common
topic... ask there and you will get info very fast.

[Josh Assing]

Thanks!

I'm guessing it's NOT the actual problem, but A problem.

I think the shop put the thermostat in backwards. I put it in "right" (didn't
pay attention when I pulled it) and now the car isn't overheating -- infact,
it's running COOLER than it did before it was swapped....

However, looking at how those crafty Germans did it -- it looks like they
designed it so it really doesn't mater which way it goes in - am I wrong?

I have the manual; and it talks about trouble shooting the aux fan - but I'll
ask there just to be sure the manual isn't missing something.....


Cheers
-josh

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 15:22:31 -0500, "SharkmanBMW" <1@1.com> wrote:

[SharkmanBMW]

get a BENTLEY MANUAL FOR THE CAR... OR FOR A E34 535, SAME THING VIRTUALLY!
search the bimmerinfo and you'll find TONS!
tell them sharkman540 sent you!

[Josh Assing]

Got one - gotta find my ohm meter...

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 16:06:46 -0500, "SharkmanBMW" <1@1.com> wrote:

[Malt_Hound]

Josh Assing wrote:

[Malt_Hound]

SharkmanBMW wrote:

[Josh Assing]

[Malt_Hound]

Josh Assing wrote:

[Josh Assing]

[ReddDawg]

We had a bad t-stat in the 00 323 - faught with it while waiting for
the tools to come in to remove the fan clutch. Did not bleed it
properly the second time and she was quite the moody little german.
Went back, pulled the bleeder screw and ran it until coolant came out
smoothly, replaced it and she was happy until the new t-stat went in.
During this time I topped off the 97 528 and did not think to bleed it.
Overheated the next day. Let it cool down, completely filled it back
up, removed both bleeder screws and all is well. I have never had a
problem like this with the 94 325is and have yet to personally work on
the 01 530i but rest assured that if I TOUCH the cooling system on it
the bleeder screw is coming out!

[Josh Assing]

I did the cardboard test on the clutch. Car came up to temp & stayed right
where it should. (aux fan didn't kick in -- gotta find my ohm meter).

The clutch stopped very easy -- and actually, had less friction than when it was
cold -- I could spin the fan in the opposite direction as the pully w/o a
problem. I guess I"ll be ordering a new clutch now... :(


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