| Author |
Message |
trainfan1
Guest
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Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 1:35 am Post subject:
Re: '92 Ford Areostar cooling fluxuations ... |
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msemsker wrote:
| Quote: | I have a 95 astro and the temp gauge fluxuates from cold to hot and then back again any idea what the problem may be
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Gee, I sure miss my old '87 Areolastar.
Rob
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Tom Adkins
Guest
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Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 5:12 am Post subject:
Re: '92 Ford Areostar cooling fluxuations ... |
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trainfan1 wrote:
| Quote: | msemsker wrote:
I have a 95 astro and the temp gauge fluxuates from cold to hot and
then back again any idea what the problem may be
Gee, I sure miss my old '87 Areolastar.
Rob
|
Lots of folks dismiss the Aerostar as junk. Through the years though Ive noticed
that they were pretty reliable and troublefree until about 110K then they started
falling apart...and falling apart... Lots of oddball stuff after that like rear ends,
control arm bushings, trailing arm bushings etc. Here in Ohio the rust got to them
badly after a few years.
Like trainfan said, try a coolant flush, thermostat first. Also replace the temp
gauge sender while you're there, I've seen many of them cause exactly this problem.
You can doo all of this for about $25-30. |
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Guest
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Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 7:43 am Post subject:
Re: '92 Ford Areostar cooling fluxuations ... |
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On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 20:12:40 -0400, Tom Adkins
<newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote:
| Quote: | trainfan1 wrote:
msemsker wrote:
I have a 95 astro and the temp gauge fluxuates from cold to hot and
then back again any idea what the problem may be
Gee, I sure miss my old '87 Areolastar.
Rob
Lots of folks dismiss the Aerostar as junk. Through the years though Ive noticed
that they were pretty reliable and troublefree until about 110K then they started
falling apart...and falling apart... Lots of oddball stuff after that like rear ends,
control arm bushings, trailing arm bushings etc. Here in Ohio the rust got to them
badly after a few years.
Like trainfan said, try a coolant flush, thermostat first. Also replace the temp
gauge sender while you're there, I've seen many of them cause exactly this problem.
You can doo all of this for about $25-30.
|
I've enjoyed my two. Sold the first one (1 1989) to a friend with
about 140,000km on it - they put it over 300,000. Two body jobs - no
major mechanical failures (I replaced an accumulator seal on the
tranny while I had it)
Sold it because I was offered my Dad's 1990 with 30,000km on it for a
price I could not refuse. I put it over 240,000Km. Ford put an engine
it it under warranty due to a piston slap. I put a trans front seal in
it, and then a front sprague and input shaft 2 years later. Put U
Joints in it at about 200,000Km. Other than that,mechanically, it got
2 regulators and an alternator (I suspect it was the alternator all
along) and a few sets of brakes. When I put the HD Carbon Metalic pads
on, I didn't need to replace rotors anymore. Only 3 sets of tires, and
I THINK I put a tie rod end on it.
The body got patched twice - the seam on the drivers side was a weak
point - as was the driver's rocker panel.
I replaced the 90 with a 94 Pontiac Trans Sport. 3.8 instead of 3
liter - but absolutely USELESS for trailer towing. MUCH less interior
space, better ride, but harder on gas. Plastic body won't show any
rust untill the underbody falls apart underneath it, but I'd trade it
for a good 97 Aerostar in a heartbeat.
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Tom Adkins
Guest
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Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 7:54 am Post subject:
Re: '92 Ford Areostar cooling fluxuations ... |
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nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca wrote:
| Quote: | On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 20:12:40 -0400, Tom Adkins
newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote:
trainfan1 wrote:
msemsker wrote:
I have a 95 astro and the temp gauge fluxuates from cold to hot and
then back again any idea what the problem may be
Gee, I sure miss my old '87 Areolastar.
Rob
Lots of folks dismiss the Aerostar as junk. Through the years though Ive noticed
that they were pretty reliable and troublefree until about 110K then they started
falling apart...and falling apart... Lots of oddball stuff after that like rear ends,
control arm bushings, trailing arm bushings etc. Here in Ohio the rust got to them
badly after a few years.
Like trainfan said, try a coolant flush, thermostat first. Also replace the temp
gauge sender while you're there, I've seen many of them cause exactly this problem.
You can doo all of this for about $25-30.
I've enjoyed my two. Sold the first one (1 1989) to a friend with
about 140,000km on it - they put it over 300,000. Two body jobs - no
major mechanical failures (I replaced an accumulator seal on the
tranny while I had it)
Sold it because I was offered my Dad's 1990 with 30,000km on it for a
price I could not refuse. I put it over 240,000Km. Ford put an engine
it it under warranty due to a piston slap. I put a trans front seal in
it, and then a front sprague and input shaft 2 years later. Put U
Joints in it at about 200,000Km. Other than that,mechanically, it got
2 regulators and an alternator (I suspect it was the alternator all
along) and a few sets of brakes. When I put the HD Carbon Metalic pads
on, I didn't need to replace rotors anymore. Only 3 sets of tires, and
I THINK I put a tie rod end on it.
The body got patched twice - the seam on the drivers side was a weak
point - as was the driver's rocker panel.
I replaced the 90 with a 94 Pontiac Trans Sport. 3.8 instead of 3
liter - but absolutely USELESS for trailer towing. MUCH less interior
space, better ride, but harder on gas. Plastic body won't show any
rust untill the underbody falls apart underneath it, but I'd trade it
for a good 97 Aerostar in a heartbeat.
|
Nuff said! |
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Jeff
Guest
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Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:14 am Post subject:
Re: Acetone as a Fuel Additive (old thread) |
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|
"Mark & Mary Ann Weiss" <mweissX294@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:01H3f.13592$vw6.5838@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
| Quote: |
As you can see, a wide variety of conditions affect economy. However,
the
two most comparable legs of the trip were Maryland to NC and NC to SC
west
This is totally useless information. There is no way you can get an
accurate
MPG with just three readings and such variable driving conditions.
Jeff
The point of doing this on a long trip was the relatively controlled
speeds
and road conditions.
|
Yet you drove under different weather and road conditions, like the tractor
trailer crash and the rain. Plus, how do you know that you filled the
gas tank to the same amount after each fillup?
| Quote: | And two similar legs of the trip where speed, weather,
and duration were very much similar provided about as good a sampling as
you
can get without resorting to using a dyno for measuring under really
controlled conditions.
|
Yet, "as good a smapling as you can get" is quite poor for making any type
of conclusion.
Jeff
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Backyard Mechanic
Guest
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Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:05 pm Post subject:
Re: '92 Ford Areostar cooling fluxuations ... |
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I LOVE my Aerostar though it has over 200,000 (bought for 400 at 181k)
and is sitting driveway waiting for me to get the ambition to replace
front trans seal which only blows fluid when hot.
it has all the usual lower body rust but floor pan is almost rust-free -
central ohio
That was a dam good van, though ugly as a dogfish.
Tom Adkins <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in
news:8YWdnQGUPa0O8s3eRVn-pw@comcast.com:
| Quote: | nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca wrote:
On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 20:12:40 -0400, Tom Adkins
newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote:
trainfan1 wrote:
msemsker wrote:
I have a 95 astro and the temp gauge fluxuates from cold to hot and
then back again any idea what the problem may be
Gee, I sure miss my old '87 Areolastar.
Rob
Lots of folks dismiss the Aerostar as junk. Through the years though
Ive noticed
that they were pretty reliable and troublefree until about 110K then
they started falling apart...and falling apart... Lots of oddball
stuff after that like rear ends, control arm bushings, trailing arm
bushings etc. Here in Ohio the rust got to them badly after a few
years.
Like trainfan said, try a coolant flush, thermostat first. Also
replace the temp
gauge sender while you're there, I've seen many of them cause exactly
this problem. You can doo all of this for about $25-30.
I've enjoyed my two. Sold the first one (1 1989) to a friend with
about 140,000km on it - they put it over 300,000. Two body jobs - no
major mechanical failures (I replaced an accumulator seal on the
tranny while I had it)
Sold it because I was offered my Dad's 1990 with 30,000km on it for a
price I could not refuse. I put it over 240,000Km. Ford put an engine
it it under warranty due to a piston slap. I put a trans front seal
in it, and then a front sprague and input shaft 2 years later. Put U
Joints in it at about 200,000Km. Other than that,mechanically, it got
2 regulators and an alternator (I suspect it was the alternator all
along) and a few sets of brakes. When I put the HD Carbon Metalic
pads on, I didn't need to replace rotors anymore. Only 3 sets of
tires, and I THINK I put a tie rod end on it.
The body got patched twice - the seam on the drivers side was a weak
point - as was the driver's rocker panel.
I replaced the 90 with a 94 Pontiac Trans Sport. 3.8 instead of 3
liter - but absolutely USELESS for trailer towing. MUCH less interior
space, better ride, but harder on gas. Plastic body won't show any
rust untill the underbody falls apart underneath it, but I'd trade it
for a good 97 Aerostar in a heartbeat.
Nuff said!
|
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Backyard Mechanic
Guest
|
Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:42 pm Post subject:
Re: Pinprick hole in power steering hose--please help! |
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Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net> wrote in
news:nmb1l15b3lvt346ede2scp28mc2mclmlrk@4ax.com:
get fuel line - ID same or just under line OD.. about an inch long max...
GOOD quality gear clamp and some bendable sheet metal
clean area and de-burr around pinhole, slit fuel line, apply to steel line,
cover with metal just short of overlap, then run clamp down, over the
metal, SOLID tight with nut driver
This should force the inner lining of fuel hose into the hole somewhat and
lower effect of line pressure in working out under the patch. |
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Guest
|
Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 10:55 pm Post subject:
Re: Pinprick hole in power steering hose--please help! |
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On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 00:26:59 -0700, Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net>
wrote:
| Quote: | On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 22:45:39 -0400, nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca
wrote:
On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 00:56:46 GMT, "Nino NoSpam"
Nino.NoSpam@unsubscribenews@shaw.ca> wrote:
You don't say what type of beater this is, but I understand your
plight.
The post suggesting clamping a rubber patch over the hole with a hose
clamp would probably work fine. You could use a piece of rubber from a
bike tube.
I stopped a similar leak on a neighbor's old Taurus using the two part
epoxy that you knead in your hands and then stick on. The best way is
to make a complete circle with the material around the leak area. They
sell this stuff in auto stores as gas tank or radiator patch. Hardware
stores sell something similar. The repair I made appears to be
permanent after a year of service.
If it was mine I'd disconnect both ends, flush out the line with
water, and braze the weak spot.
If I was going to go to that much trouble I'd just buy a new hose.
|
Yea, but then you have to TOTALLY remove it, and the hoses are not
cheap. Some of us are <BG>. |
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trainfan1
Guest
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Posted:
Sat Oct 15, 2005 11:17 pm Post subject:
Re: '92 Ford Areostar cooling fluxuations ... |
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Backyard Mechanic wrote:
| Quote: | I LOVE my Aerostar though it has over 200,000 (bought for 400 at 181k)
and is sitting driveway waiting for me to get the ambition to replace
front trans seal which only blows fluid when hot.
it has all the usual lower body rust but floor pan is almost rust-free -
central ohio
|
My floorpan & undercarriage was rust-free too, bought the van in
Indiana, then upstate NY went to work & ruined the body quickly. We
basically had to give it away after a very minor collision totalled
it(kept driving it for a few months after the crash).
1 transmission & 1 steering rack were the only major repairs. Also did
both heater cores, coolant hoses, brakes, other usual stuff but parts
were pretty cheap & easy to come by.
Rob |
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Mark & Mary Ann Weiss
Guest
|
Posted:
Sun Oct 16, 2005 5:02 am Post subject:
Re: Acetone as a Fuel Additive (old thread) |
|
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| Quote: |
The point of doing this on a long trip was the relatively controlled
speeds
and road conditions.
Yet you drove under different weather and road conditions, like the
tractor
trailer crash and the rain. Plus, how do you know that you filled the
gas tank to the same amount after each fillup?
|
I noted that those legs got different mileage results. But the legs from
Maryland to North Carolina and the North Carolina to South Carolina legs
were under sunny conditions and constant speeds. The Georgia to South
Carolina leg still got pretty good mileage, considering our average speed
was over 80mph and in an SUV, that's a LOT of wind drag. Plus we had that
delay due to the accident on that leg. I think the MPG achieved was still
amazing despite the wasteful driving conditions therein.
I topped off the tank after each fillup, that's how I know it was full.
| Quote: | And two similar legs of the trip where speed, weather,
and duration were very much similar provided about as good a sampling as
you
can get without resorting to using a dyno for measuring under really
controlled conditions.
Yet, "as good a smapling as you can get" is quite poor for making any type
of conclusion.
Jeff
|
Real world conditions are what we live with. We don't drive our cars on
dynos 5 days a week; we drive them on roads with varying conditions. I think
this trip provided a large sampling of data and certainly is more conclusive
than a few short trips around town here.
--
Take care,
Mark & Mary Ann Weiss
VIDEO PRODUCTION • FILM SCANNING • DVD MASTERING • AUDIO RESTORATION
Hear my Kurzweil Creations at: http://www.dv-clips.com/theater.htm
Business sites at:
www.dv-clips.com
www.mwcomms.com
www.adventuresinanimemusic.com
- |
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Ashton Crusher
Guest
|
Posted:
Sun Oct 16, 2005 8:14 am Post subject:
Re: Pinprick hole in power steering hose--please help! |
|
|
On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 13:55:17 -0400, nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca
wrote:
| Quote: | On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 00:26:59 -0700, Ashton Crusher <Hello@nowhere.net
wrote:
On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 22:45:39 -0400, nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca
wrote:
On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 00:56:46 GMT, "Nino NoSpam"
Nino.NoSpam@unsubscribenews@shaw.ca> wrote:
You don't say what type of beater this is, but I understand your
plight.
The post suggesting clamping a rubber patch over the hole with a hose
clamp would probably work fine. You could use a piece of rubber from a
bike tube.
I stopped a similar leak on a neighbor's old Taurus using the two part
epoxy that you knead in your hands and then stick on. The best way is
to make a complete circle with the material around the leak area. They
sell this stuff in auto stores as gas tank or radiator patch. Hardware
stores sell something similar. The repair I made appears to be
permanent after a year of service.
If it was mine I'd disconnect both ends, flush out the line with
water, and braze the weak spot.
If I was going to go to that much trouble I'd just buy a new hose.
Yea, but then you have to TOTALLY remove it, and the hoses are not
cheap. Some of us are <BG>.
|
For the hoses I've changed, 95% of the work was
disconnecting/reconnecting the fittings. Worst was a Corsica. And
one of them leaked and almost started the car on fire. Too bad it
didn't, it was a lemon in every way. |
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Jeff
Guest
|
Posted:
Sun Oct 16, 2005 10:00 pm Post subject:
Re: Acetone as a Fuel Additive (old thread) |
|
|
"Mark & Mary Ann Weiss" <mweissX294@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:mMg4f.14343$vw6.6248@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
| Quote: |
The point of doing this on a long trip was the relatively controlled
speeds
and road conditions.
Yet you drove under different weather and road conditions, like the
tractor
trailer crash and the rain. Plus, how do you know that you filled the
gas tank to the same amount after each fillup?
I noted that those legs got different mileage results. But the legs from
Maryland to North Carolina and the North Carolina to South Carolina legs
were under sunny conditions and constant speeds. The Georgia to South
Carolina leg still got pretty good mileage, considering our average speed
was over 80mph and in an SUV, that's a LOT of wind drag. Plus we had that
delay due to the accident on that leg. I think the MPG achieved was still
amazing despite the wasteful driving conditions therein.
I topped off the tank after each fillup, that's how I know it was full.
|
Yet you didn't have a delay due to that accident at that temp. going the
other way. The wind conditions were different. You were going uphill and
downhill at different times. You were using different batches of fuel
(probably acetone, as well).
The comparisons are meaningless to draw a conclusion.
Jeff
| Quote: |
And two similar legs of the trip where speed, weather,
and duration were very much similar provided about as good a sampling
as
you
can get without resorting to using a dyno for measuring under really
controlled conditions.
Yet, "as good a smapling as you can get" is quite poor for making any
type
of conclusion.
Jeff
Real world conditions are what we live with. We don't drive our cars on
dynos 5 days a week; we drive them on roads with varying conditions. I
think
this trip provided a large sampling of data and certainly is more
conclusive
than a few short trips around town here.
--
Take care,
Mark & Mary Ann Weiss
VIDEO PRODUCTION . FILM SCANNING . DVD MASTERING . AUDIO RESTORATION
Hear my Kurzweil Creations at: http://www.dv-clips.com/theater.htm
Business sites at:
www.dv-clips.com
www.mwcomms.com
www.adventuresinanimemusic.com
-
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Bob
Guest
|
Posted:
Mon Oct 17, 2005 12:29 am Post subject:
Re: Acetone as a Fuel Additive (old thread) |
|
|
"Jeff" <kidsdoc2000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:MGv4f.17135$q1.104@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
| Quote: |
"Mark & Mary Ann Weiss" <mweissX294@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:mMg4f.14343$vw6.6248@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
The point of doing this on a long trip was the relatively controlled
speeds
and road conditions.
Yet you drove under different weather and road conditions, like the
tractor
trailer crash and the rain. Plus, how do you know that you filled
the
gas tank to the same amount after each fillup?
I noted that those legs got different mileage results. But the legs from
Maryland to North Carolina and the North Carolina to South Carolina legs
were under sunny conditions and constant speeds. The Georgia to South
Carolina leg still got pretty good mileage, considering our average speed
was over 80mph and in an SUV, that's a LOT of wind drag. Plus we had that
delay due to the accident on that leg. I think the MPG achieved was still
amazing despite the wasteful driving conditions therein.
I topped off the tank after each fillup, that's how I know it was full.
Yet you didn't have a delay due to that accident at that temp. going the
other way. The wind conditions were different. You were going uphill and
downhill at different times. You were using different batches of fuel
(probably acetone, as well).
The comparisons are meaningless to draw a conclusion.
Jeff
|
Aww come on Jeff... he got the results he was looking for and that's all
that matters. Most of the people who have installed those tornado fuel
savers, magnets on the gas lines, etc. all think there car runs better, gets
better milage etc.
Bob |
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mercurysableguy
Guest
|
Posted:
Mon Oct 17, 2005 8:31 pm Post subject:
Re: 00 Taurus automatic headlights |
|
|
I know this is a late post, but I have a solution for those who have this
problem in the future... I have a 2000.00 mercury sable ls premium with
autolamps that only turned on the parking lights when engaged with no
headlights. I went to my ford dealership and bought the following part
YF1Z-14A067-AA it's the central fuse/relax box. It doesn't include the GEM
module which is connected to the back of this fuse box. But your original
one will do fine. It the GEM module has one bolt and 2 clips on each side
pop that off and put it on the new fuse box and replace the 6 wiring
harasses and you should be good to go. I know it fixed my problem. My
central fuse/relay box's "NON"replacable relay went bad therefore it
didn't switch on the headlights. There are about 9 "NON" replacable relays
in that box which include your autowindow down, your defroster, autolamps,
hornstop, and a couple more are in there. So if they also go bad it's time
to replace that module. The part listed for $204.00. If you're anything
like me you'd get it replaced because the car isn't that old and honestly
I've gotten accustomed to the autolamps feature. Cheers and goodluck.
Tony aka mercurysableguy |
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johanb
Guest
|
Posted:
Mon Oct 17, 2005 8:50 pm Post subject:
Re: 00 Taurus automatic headlights |
|
|
Just make sure your windshield isn't leaking water on your new fuse box.
"mercurysableguy" <guyfromss@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a223257568454b890bac6d7afedcd70c@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
| Quote: | I know this is a late post, but I have a solution for those who have this
problem in the future... I have a 2000.00 mercury sable ls premium with
autolamps that only turned on the parking lights when engaged with no
headlights. I went to my ford dealership and bought the following part
YF1Z-14A067-AA it's the central fuse/relax box. It doesn't include the GEM
module which is connected to the back of this fuse box. But your original
one will do fine. It the GEM module has one bolt and 2 clips on each side
pop that off and put it on the new fuse box and replace the 6 wiring
harasses and you should be good to go. I know it fixed my problem. My
central fuse/relay box's "NON"replacable relay went bad therefore it
didn't switch on the headlights. There are about 9 "NON" replacable relays
in that box which include your autowindow down, your defroster, autolamps,
hornstop, and a couple more are in there. So if they also go bad it's time
to replace that module. The part listed for $204.00. If you're anything
like me you'd get it replaced because the car isn't that old and honestly
I've gotten accustomed to the autolamps feature. Cheers and goodluck.
Tony aka mercurysableguy
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