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[Awelch]

How does one keep the sparay gun nozzle clear between coats?

[*]

If you're talking about a real spray gun, I would soak the nozzle in laquer
thinner.......

If you're talking about a rattle-can, you turn the can upside-down when you
are done, and spray until it runs clear.

Turning the can upside-down places the inside tube at the top where it
picks up no paint, and eventually blows only propellant out......clearing
the nozzle of paint in the process.



Awelch <bozo2@ticon.net> wrote in article
<42f4afc7$0$30487$8b463f8a@news.nationwide.net>...

[Awelch]

Any tips on ajusting the spray gun? I bought one from Menards, a middle
grade gun. It has two plungers with adjustments operating off the
trigger mechanism.






* wrote:

[Eugene Blanchard]

There are different adjusting procedures for siphon feed guns versus top
feed and HVLP guns. Do you know which type you have? Here's some general
info

http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/articles/spray_guns.htm

One specific for HVLP

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html

Compressor pressure is set to 40 to 50 psi. I use a big old piece of
cardboard for testing my spray guns. One control is used for the fan width,
and the other for the pressure/amount of paint. I set the fan width for
about 10" wide at my spraying distance of 12" (distance changes depending
on gun type) and adjust the pressure so that if I shoot the gun in one spot
for 4 seconds, it doesn't run. The nozzle can be rotated so that you can
have a horizontal or vertical fan pattern. 90% of the time, you'll use a
vertical fan pattern.

Most important is that you keep the gun perpendicular to the surface when
spraying and the air hose over your shoulder. Something most people may not
know is that the gun trigger has two positions. The first position (pull
slightly) is air only, pull a little more is paint. As you approach the
start of the paint stroke, start air and then paint where you want. At the
end of the paint stroke, release the trigger only enough to stop painting
but keep the air flowing as you move past the end point. YOu can paint in
alternating directions this way.

Overlap 50% between strokes and don't go over the same spot twice to fix a
mistake. You must let it flash first (dry to a tacky state). The paint I
use flashes in 10 minutes. Its really hard not to try to fix that one spot
you missed - if you do you'll end up with a run! Wait for the next coat...

The first coat is usually a tack coat which is a light mist - not a complete
coat. You let it flash so that the next coats have something to stick to
without running. The next coats are wet coats - complete coverage. You look
at the paint's reflection and should see an even wet coat.

Here's a tip for primer, look at the paint's reflection as you are priming,
to see how well the body work is. The primer goes on wet and reflects like
a mirror for a little while - any imperfections show up very well. Gives
you an idea of what the color coats will look like.

-


Awelch wrote:

[Guest]

On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 04:54:25 GMT, Eugene Blanchard
<blanchae@telus.net> wrote:

[Awelch]

Well, thanks to those who offered some good advice here.
I got DuPont base-coat and thinner to repair the front bumper on my 99
Taurus. The results are good but I don't have quite the sheen of the
original finish. I wonder if using rubbing compound over the clear coat
is advisable?
The good news is that I have saved enough on one repair job to pay for
my compressor and spray equipment.
Now its on to painting the rust repair done on our cargo van.









myford100@yahoo.com wrote:

[Guest]

On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 13:45:51 -0500, Awelch <bozo2@ticon.net> wrote:

[RSCamaro]

On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 13:45:51 -0500, Awelch <bozo2@ticon.net> wrote:

[Awelch]

I believe the paint from DuPont is a laquor. I saved about $10 by using
Duplicolr clear acrylic laquor for the clear coat rather than the
DuPont product. The paint supplier said the DuPlicolor stuff was as
good as DuPonts.





RSCamaro wrote:

[RSCamaro]

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 08:49:25 -0500, Awelch <bozo2@ticon.net> wrote: