| Author |
Message |
Bruce Porter
Guest
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 Posted:
Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:11 pm Post subject:
Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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The diff. is leaking oil out the front, and I can't get the filler plug
loose to check level; might be crossthreaded.
Can't find a source for new diff. covers, so I might just take it off,
drill a new hole & use a rubber plug.
Do the '55s have a Dana rear that the JC Whitney Chrome covers will fit?
Ordered a new pinion gear oil seal. Looks like all I need to do is
disconnect the U-joint, "slip off" the
yoke from the pinion shaft. Then pry/dig out the old seal, bang the new
one in with the right size socket or pipe.
Am I on the right track? Any warnings/suggestions?
TIA
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Bob Johnstone
Guest
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| Posted:
Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:12 pm Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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Bruce Porter wrote:
| Quote: | The diff. is leaking oil out the front, and I can't get the filler plug
loose to check level; might be crossthreaded.
Can't find a source for new diff. covers, so I might just take it off,
drill a new hole & use a rubber plug.
Do the '55s have a Dana rear that the JC Whitney Chrome covers will fit?
Ordered a new pinion gear oil seal. Looks like all I need to do is
disconnect the U-joint, "slip off" the
yoke from the pinion shaft. Then pry/dig out the old seal, bang the new
one in with the right size socket or pipe.
Am I on the right track? Any warnings/suggestions?
TIA
INSERT / crack loose and remove large nut/ before /"slip off" the
yoke from the pinion shaft. |
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Bruce Porter
Guest
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| Posted:
Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:12 pm Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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Bob Johnstone wrote:
| Quote: | Bruce Porter wrote:
The diff. is leaking oil out the front, and I can't get the filler
plug loose to check level; might be crossthreaded.
Can't find a source for new diff. covers, so I might just take it
off, drill a new hole & use a rubber plug.
Do the '55s have a Dana rear that the JC Whitney Chrome covers will fit?
Ordered a new pinion gear oil seal. Looks like all I need to do is
disconnect the U-joint, "slip off" the
yoke from the pinion shaft. Then pry/dig out the old seal, bang the
new one in with the right size socket or pipe.
Am I on the right track? Any warnings/suggestions?
TIA
INSERT / crack loose and remove large nut/ before /"slip off" the
yoke from the pinion shaft.
|
Thanks - I bet that will be fun to get off after 50 years...
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Bruce Porter
Guest
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| Posted:
Sat Jul 30, 2005 4:12 pm Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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"Bruce Porter" <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in message
news:iZJFe.38648$5N3.27570@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
| Quote: | The diff. is leaking oil out the front, and I can't get the filler plug
loose to check level; might be crossthreaded.
Can't find a source for new diff. covers, so I might just take it off,
drill a new hole & use a rubber plug.
Do the '55s have a Dana rear that the JC Whitney Chrome covers will fit?
|
Turns out to be a trick question - there is no rear diff cover!
http://chevy.tocmp.com/booklets/5506top02.htm
The whole diff. carrier seperates and lifts out.
It looks like most of the leaking is at this seal.
| Quote: |
Ordered a new pinion gear oil seal. Looks like all I need to do is
disconnect the U-joint, "slip off" the
yoke from the pinion shaft. Then pry/dig out the old seal, bang the new
one in with the right size socket or pipe.
Am I on the right track? Any warnings/suggestions?
TIA |
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*
Guest
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| Posted:
Sun Jul 31, 2005 4:12 pm Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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Bruce Porter <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in article
<iZJFe.38648$5N3.27570@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
| Quote: |
Am I on the right track? Any warnings/suggestions?
TIA
|
You will want to mark the positions of the nut, and yoke in reference to
the end of the pinion. I usually use a prick punch, placing three marks -
pinion, nut, yoke - in-line.
If there is a crush sleeve, over tightening it could easily burn out the
pinion bearings.
Even if the bearings are spaced with shims, there is always the potential
for over/under tightening.
Initial pinion installation usually requires tightening to a certain
bearing pre-load which is measured with an inch-pound torque wrench applied
to the pinion nut, spinning the pinion and reading the torque required,
prior to installing the ring (or crown) gear.
If such a procedure is not possible - as in your case - care must be taken
to return the pinion nut to the same place in order to provide the same
bearing pre-load....
.....and, NO....
......you cannot loosen the pinion nut with a torque wrench, then tighten it
back to the same torque spec since it requires considerably LESS torque to
loosen a fastener than to tighten it. |
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Dan Crooks
Guest
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| Posted:
Mon Aug 01, 2005 6:15 am Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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Just a reminder.....Remember INCH #
not FOOT#.........
Dan
Milw WI |
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*
Guest
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| Posted:
Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:12 am Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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Dan Crooks <Dan_Crooks@webtv.net> wrote in article
<14371-42ED77BE-886@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>...
| Quote: | Just a reminder.....Remember INCH #
not FOOT#.........
Dan
Milw WI
|
That's what I said....inch-pounds......
What's the problem? |
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*
Guest
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| Posted:
Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:12 am Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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Dan Crooks <Dan_Crooks@webtv.net> wrote in article
<14371-42ED77BE-886@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>...
| Quote: | Just a reminder.....Remember INCH #
not FOOT#.........
Dan
Milw WI
|
Didn't I say inch-pounds????? |
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Bruce Porter
Guest
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| Posted:
Tue Aug 02, 2005 3:50 pm Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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* wrote:
| Quote: | Bruce Porter <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in article
iZJFe.38648$5N3.27570@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
Am I on the right track? Any warnings/suggestions?
TIA
You will want to mark the positions of the nut, and yoke in reference to
the end of the pinion. I usually use a prick punch, placing three marks -
pinion, nut, yoke - in-line.
If there is a crush sleeve, over tightening it could easily burn out the
pinion bearings.
Even if the bearings are spaced with shims, there is always the potential
for over/under tightening.
Initial pinion installation usually requires tightening to a certain
bearing pre-load which is measured with an inch-pound torque wrench applied
to the pinion nut, spinning the pinion and reading the torque required,
prior to installing the ring (or crown) gear.
If such a procedure is not possible - as in your case - care must be taken
to return the pinion nut to the same place in order to provide the same
bearing pre-load....
....and, NO....
.....you cannot loosen the pinion nut with a torque wrench, then tighten it
back to the same torque spec since it requires considerably LESS torque to
loosen a fastener than to tighten it.
Well, we took it to a shop to se if they could get the filler hole plug |
out, so we can add oil for now.
They are soaking it and will try again today.
Like I said before, most of the oil leak seems to be coming from the
seal between the diff carrier
and the axle housing:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/booklets/5506top02.htm
I can't find any mention/listing for a seal/gasket there.
Would you use some kid of liquid gasket?
How much of a job to just try to fix this leak, as compared to disassembling the carrier to change the pinion seal? |
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*
Guest
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| Posted:
Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:12 am Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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Bruce Porter <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in article
<SdIHe.58096$5N3.42959@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
| Quote: |
Well, we took it to a shop to se if they could get the filler hole plug
out, so we can add oil for now.
They are soaking it and will try again today.
Like I said before, most of the oil leak seems to be coming from the
seal between the diff carrier
and the axle housing:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/booklets/5506top02.htm
I can't find any mention/listing for a seal/gasket there.
Would you use some kid of liquid gasket?
How much of a job to just try to fix this leak, as compared to
disassembling the carrier to change the pinion seal?
|
Last time I checked the NAPA gasket paper catalog (not NAPA online, and NOT
the NAPA store computer), NAPA STILL had a listing for the '55 Chevy
passenger car carrier-to-housing gasket.....
.......but, done correctly, Permatex silicone will work fine if a gasket
cannot be found.
Any attempts to patch the leak externally will be just that....a PATCH job! |
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Bruce Porter
Guest
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| Posted:
Wed Aug 03, 2005 9:31 pm Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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* wrote:
| Quote: | Bruce Porter <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in article
SdIHe.58096$5N3.42959@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
Well, we took it to a shop to se if they could get the filler hole plug
out, so we can add oil for now.
They are soaking it and will try again today.
Like I said before, most of the oil leak seems to be coming from the
seal between the diff carrier
and the axle housing:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/booklets/5506top02.htm
I can't find any mention/listing for a seal/gasket there.
Would you use some kid of liquid gasket?
How much of a job to just try to fix this leak, as compared to
disassembling the carrier to change the pinion seal?
Last time I checked the NAPA gasket paper catalog (not NAPA online, and NOT
the NAPA store computer), NAPA STILL had a listing for the '55 Chevy
passenger car carrier-to-housing gasket.....
......but, done correctly, Permatex silicone will work fine if a gasket
cannot be found.
Any attempts to patch the leak externally will be just that....a PATCH job!
OK, Advanced Auto actually has the gasket in stock across town. |
My question is: Can an average amatuer mechanic remove & replace the
carrier as shown in the link above?
Clean the surfaces, put that tacky stuff on the gasket, and put it back
together.
Any worry about shims, alignment problems?
Thanks for the help. |
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sdlomi2
Guest
|
| Posted:
Thu Aug 04, 2005 8:12 am Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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|
"Bruce Porter" <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in message
news:Hj6Ie.62207$5N3.12330@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
| Quote: | * wrote:
Bruce Porter <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in article
SdIHe.58096$5N3.42959@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
Well, we took it to a shop to se if they could get the filler hole plug
out, so we can add oil for now.
They are soaking it and will try again today.
Like I said before, most of the oil leak seems to be coming from the
seal between the diff carrier
and the axle housing:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/booklets/5506top02.htm
I can't find any mention/listing for a seal/gasket there.
Would you use some kid of liquid gasket?
How much of a job to just try to fix this leak, as compared to
disassembling the carrier to change the pinion seal?
Last time I checked the NAPA gasket paper catalog (not NAPA online, and
NOT
the NAPA store computer), NAPA STILL had a listing for the '55 Chevy
passenger car carrier-to-housing gasket.....
......but, done correctly, Permatex silicone will work fine if a gasket
cannot be found.
Any attempts to patch the leak externally will be just that....a PATCH
job!
OK, Advanced Auto actually has the gasket in stock across town.
My question is: Can an average amatuer mechanic remove & replace the
carrier as shown in the link above?
Clean the surfaces, put that tacky stuff on the gasket, and put it back
together.
Any worry about shims, alignment problems?
Thanks for the help.
You've gotta remove brake drums, remove 4 nuts/bolts on each axle-flange |
behind backing plate, *jerk* (really need an axle puller for
this--slide-hammer type)out each axle(there is a left & right, so mark
them), remove driveshaft, remove 'hoghead' nuts(If original teardown, or if
replaced earlier as from factory, there should be copper washers/gaskets
behind the nuts and over the studs:carefully remove, flatten gently with
flat-faced hammer and re-use them IF you cannot find new ones), & then
remove hoghead. Remove/fix oil fill plug & hole while out. Clean 2
surfaces, install gasket over studs, reverse procedure. Axles have to be
*driven* back into splines--big hammer with softer blows is much better than
smaller hammer with many, heavy blows. You can hear it when they fully
install, so listen carefully for that FIRST solid blow. REMEMBER to fill
with fresh differential oil! Good luck. s |
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Bruce Porter
Guest
|
| Posted:
Thu Aug 04, 2005 4:12 pm Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
|
|
sdlomi2 wrote:
| Quote: | "Bruce Porter" <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in message
news:Hj6Ie.62207$5N3.12330@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
* wrote:
Bruce Porter <b.a.porter@att.net> wrote in article
SdIHe.58096$5N3.42959@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>...
Well, we took it to a shop to se if they could get the filler hole plug
out, so we can add oil for now.
They are soaking it and will try again today.
Like I said before, most of the oil leak seems to be coming from the
seal between the diff carrier
and the axle housing:
http://chevy.tocmp.com/booklets/5506top02.htm
I can't find any mention/listing for a seal/gasket there.
Would you use some kid of liquid gasket?
How much of a job to just try to fix this leak, as compared to
disassembling the carrier to change the pinion seal?
Last time I checked the NAPA gasket paper catalog (not NAPA online, and
NOT
the NAPA store computer), NAPA STILL had a listing for the '55 Chevy
passenger car carrier-to-housing gasket.....
......but, done correctly, Permatex silicone will work fine if a gasket
cannot be found.
Any attempts to patch the leak externally will be just that....a PATCH
job!
OK, Advanced Auto actually has the gasket in stock across town.
My question is: Can an average amatuer mechanic remove & replace the
carrier as shown in the link above?
Clean the surfaces, put that tacky stuff on the gasket, and put it back
together.
Any worry about shims, alignment problems?
Thanks for the help.
You've gotta remove brake drums, remove 4 nuts/bolts on each axle-flange
behind backing plate, *jerk* (really need an axle puller for
this--slide-hammer type)out each axle(there is a left & right, so mark
them), remove driveshaft, remove 'hoghead' nuts(If original teardown, or if
replaced earlier as from factory, there should be copper washers/gaskets
behind the nuts and over the studs:carefully remove, flatten gently with
flat-faced hammer and re-use them IF you cannot find new ones), & then
remove hoghead. Remove/fix oil fill plug & hole while out. Clean 2
surfaces, install gasket over studs, reverse procedure. Axles have to be
*driven* back into splines--big hammer with softer blows is much better than
smaller hammer with many, heavy blows. You can hear it when they fully
install, so listen carefully for that FIRST solid blow. REMEMBER to fill
with fresh differential oil! Good luck. s
Thanks for all the great help, guys. |
A shop got the filler plug out for us; I think the main reason it was
sticking, was there's nothing left of the gasket, and it was going too
far into the threads.
Now that we can top it off every week, I'll try to decide whether to
tackle this ourselves, or bring it to a shop.
Next up: Turn Signals & Speedometer. |
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*
Guest
|
| Posted:
Fri Aug 05, 2005 5:33 am Post subject:
Re: Changing rear diff pinion bearing oil seal in '55 Chevy |
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|
sdlomi2 <sdlomi2@spam.yahoo.com> wrote in article
<PngIe.4056$Tt6.256@fe04.lga>...
| Quote: |
Axles have to be
*driven* back into splines--big hammer with softer blows is much better
than
smaller hammer with many, heavy blows. You can hear it when they fully
install, so listen carefully for that FIRST solid blow.
|
If you have to hammer splines together, you have a problem.
In the older tri-five Chevies, the axle bearing was a tight fit to the
housing, and it sometimes needed a little "persuasion" from a "swing
press", but forcing splines is only asking for problems.
If you were to slide an axle in without the outer bearing pressed on, you
would find it slides nicely - or SHOULD slide nicely - into the side gear
splines. If not, then something needs to come apart and be fixed.
As a matter of fact, the OP can slide his axle splines into the side gears
while the pumpkin is out of the housing and see what I mean.
ANY force required, should be to drive the bearing into the housing.
Cleaning the bearing surfaces in the housing - coupled with a little grease
- should allow things to slip together a little easier. |
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