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[Scott Buchanan]

If anyone knows about heat shrinking metal with a torch, I would like to get
a discussion with you.

Thanks, Scott

[v8z]

Scott,
Procedurte is basically to heat an area of the streched metal about the size
of a dime to a dull red. When the metal begins to dome up, you know you've
added enough heat. Immediately set the torch aside ( a helper or stand
makes it easier), then you place a dolly directly under the domed part and
hammer, forcing the metal into itself. Then cool with a damp rag or sponge.

Lots of good information on the web:
http://www.metalmeet.com/index.htm
http://www.allshops.org/

Do a search on the forums at either site and you'll find info and pics.
Also consider searching on "shrinking disk".
The back panel on the Roadster I'm just finishing up was rumpled pretty
good, with the metal quite stretched. I made a shrinking disk out of a
stainless steel pot lid, and was amazed at how well it worked compared to
the old torch method.

You can see the tool on a page on my site
http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/bodywork.htm
and check out the other body and metalworking stuff on rest of the site
using the links on the left http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns

V8Z


"Scott Buchanan" <t120rv@pacifier.com> wrote in message
news:11d030c8qln9t2a@corp.supernews.com...

[Scott Buchanan]

Thanks for the info.

I have been doing some work with a torch. It has removed the "oil canning"
but have a lot more to go.

One question that I have is this: Most of the time when heating the metal
will move toward the flame. But once in a while the metal will move away
from the flame. Is this telling me something?


"v8z" <juiced@datsunz.com> wrote in message
news:YsUze.2942$yC5.1823@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com...

[Eugene Blanchard]

I agree with the amazing shrinking disk. I made one with a $2.00 garage sale
pot lid and it works quite well. It's also very forgiving and fast.

v8z wrote:

[Scott Buchanan]

How does one use a shrinking disk? Do you still heat until red then pound
and quench?

"Eugene Blanchard" <blanchae@telus.net> wrote in message
news:7R9Ae.115243$9A2.36465@edtnps89...

[Eugene Blanchard]

Scott Buchanan wrote:

[v8z]

As Eugene said in his reply, you run the spinning disk over the high spots
until they turn straw color - almost but not quite blue. Keep the disk
moving in small circles over the high spots, almost like using a disk
sander. When the metal is hot enough, quench it. Unlike the torch method,
where you are using localized heat to expand a small spot of metal and
hammering to force it together, the disk heats a larger area and quenching
pulls it in. In between disk passes, you can do some light off-dolly work
to bring up the lows. One of the sites I gave you the links for has a video
of a guy using one.

V8Z


"Scott Buchanan" <t120rv@pacifier.com> wrote in message
news:11d2v605vjn7c14@corp.supernews.com...

[Scott Buchanan]

I just thought of something: the fender was pushed inward so the stretched
spot is the low spot and the disk will not touch. How does the disk work in
this situation?

Thanks, Scott
"v8z" <juiced@datsunz.com> wrote in message
news:m_uAe.6873$yC5.609@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com...

[v8z]

I'd have to see it in person to say for sure, but if its typical, you need
to work the dent out as far as you can with a good ole hammer and dolly
before attempting any shrinking. Use mostly off-dolly techniques to prevent
further stretching - hold the dolly under the deep part, and tap the high
edge next to it with the hammer, working around the perimeter of the dent.
Lots of softer blows will make the meatl move, rather than heavy whacks.

Unless the dent was formed by a really pointy object, most of the stretching
will have occured in the sides of the dent. Picture trying to push your
fist through a piece of taughtly held plastic wrap - the material in contact
with your fist doesn't stretch as much as the material adjacent to your
fist. So as you start pushing the deepest part out, the "sides" of the dent
with start to buckle, because the material is stretched, These are the high
spots you work with the disk. You have to alternate between the disk and
dolly.

One of the best pieces of advice I got from an old-timer was to get a scrap
fender and intentionally dent it in a few places. The practice on a scrap
piece will save you time and grief when doing the real thing.
V8Z


"Scott Buchanan" <t120rv@pacifier.com> wrote in message
news:11dah7ed69jp087@corp.supernews.com...

[Scott Buchanan]

Thanks for the good instruction. I'll work on it this weekend if time
permits.

I see that you are into Z's. I have a '71 that is stock except for paint,
pearl white with gold pinstriping and wheels, original Minilites with gold
inset. It is in pretty good condition except the interior needs to be
re-done. I am thinking about changing from black to red. I'll leave the dash
black. How do you think that will look?

Thanks, Scott


"v8z" <juiced@datsunz.com> wrote in message
news:S%hBe.13036$yC5.9875@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com...