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marcine73
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 Posted:
Wed Jun 29, 2005 7:36 am Post subject:
columbia 2 speed rearend |
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Is there anyone out there who knows anything at all about Columbia 2
speed rearends?!? My boyfriend recently bought one for his 29 model A
Ford hot rod, and he’s having one hell of a time trying to get the
damn thing back together. I believe he said he is having trouble with
the differential(?).
please, someone out there, have pity on me and perhaps give me some
information I can pass along to him. Help make my life more bearable
so he can get this car out before summer is over. Thank you!
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George Patterson
Guest
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| Posted:
Wed Jun 29, 2005 8:12 am Post subject:
Re: columbia 2 speed rearend |
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marcine73 wrote:
| Quote: | Is there anyone out there who knows anything at all about Columbia 2
speed rearends?!? My boyfriend recently bought one for his 29 model A
Ford hot rod, and he’s having one hell of a time trying to get the
damn thing back together. I believe he said he is having trouble with
the differential(?).
|
You probably heard him correctly -- that's the section in the middle that does
all the work. Here's an article that may help a bit.
http://www.flatheadv8.org/columbia/columbia3.htm
There's a detailed mechanic's section on this rear end in the Shop Manual for
the 1939-48 Ford. That can be purchased at various places. The section runs
about 25 pages, so it would be a bit of a pain to scan. If he has specific
questions, have him email me -- I'll look through the manual and try to find an
answer.
George Patterson
Why do men's hearts beat faster, knees get weak, throats become dry,
and they think irrationally when a woman wears leather clothing?
Because she smells like a new truck. |
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Guest
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| Posted:
Thu Jun 30, 2005 12:12 am Post subject:
Re: columbia 2 speed rearend |
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Boy I haven't thought about the old Columbia rear ends for a long time.
Helped put one in a 38 F coupe in the early 50s. The owner did most of
the bull work and I did the vacuum lines etc.
Warm up your printer.
INSTALLATION:- When Overdrive axle is installed the regular Ford or
Lincoln-Zephyr axle should be dismantled (center pinion mounting housing
need not be removed but torque tube should be blocked up so that it does
not hang on the universal joint ball housing). Right hand axle housing,
differential case (right and left halves and bearing on right half),
differential pinion spider, and ring gear bolts and nuts should be
discarded (replaced by over-drive axle parts). Overdrive axle assembly
should be assembled on pinion housing using original cap screws, except
for top front hole (special long cap screw and copper washer furnished
wired to hole in which it should be installed). Original right hand axle
shaft should be filed smooth for distance of 8" back from side gear to
remove all scale and high spots, thoroughly cleaned, and dipped in
regular axle lubricant (5" at side gear end). Then insert shaft through
overdrive unit (these instructions for shafts without speedometer drive
gear only). Original differential pinions should be assembled on new
spider, bronze thrust washer installed on spider in back of each pinion
(lubricate washers with axle lubricant before installing), and inserted
in overdrive differential case so that spider engaged in slots in
internal gear case and pinions properly meshed with side gear. Original
left hand axle shaft should be threaded through new yellow bronze side
gear thrust washer and original ring gear, washer tongues entered into
slots in differential case through which differential spider was
assembled, and ring gear bolted to face of differential case with new
cap screws. Left hand axle housing can then be assembled. Important –
See that ring gear and differential are clean and free from all nicks to
ensure gear running true, tighten mounting screws evenly and securely
and lock screws with lockwire. Make certain that side gear thrust washer
tongues do not slip out of slots in case while gear is being installed.
Good Luck, the fun part is..You have a
six speed tranny.
Dan
Milw
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George Patterson
Guest
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| Posted:
Thu Jun 30, 2005 8:06 am Post subject:
Re: columbia 2 speed rearend |
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marcine73 wrote:
| Quote: |
The differential - the gears on the ends of the axle bind up.
He just can’t seem to get a handle on what could be going wrong.
|
Ok, I'm still not quite sure what he means, but here are some things to tell him
to try. First, some background (mainly for you, 'cause he probably knows all this).
The axle is in two pieces; each ends in a gear located near the center of the
car. Those gears mesh with a central unit called a "spider." This contains four
gears in a cage. The spider bolts to a large gear called the pinion gear. The
gear on the end of the driveshaft meshes with this. The general idea is that the
driveshaft gear turns the pinion gear, and the spider rotates along with that.
Since the axle half gears are meshed with the spider gears, the axles must turn.
Since the spider gears are free to spin in either direction, one axle half can
turn slower than the other (this difference in speeds is where the differential
gets its name). This lets the car make turns. The spider is the key piece of the
differential.
Ok -- for him. Ford made these axles with gears than had different numbers of
teeth. I can't remember which years had what, but there are axles with 16 teeth
and others with 18 teeth. Axles with 16-teeth gears will not work with spider
gears intended for 18-teeth axles. If his axle was assembled from parts, it's
possible that one or more of his spider gears is the wrong part, or he may even
have two different axle halves.
There are no shims or adjustments to the spider. There are also no adjustments
possible to the pinion gear. The only adjustment available is the use of various
thicknesses of gaskets where the axle half housing joins the "banjo" (he'll know
what you mean).
Tests to run. I assume the rear end is in the car; if not, he'll be able to
duplicate these tests on the bench. Jack the car until both rear wheels are off
the ground. Put the car in gear and try to rotate one wheel. There should be a
little resistance, but it shouldn't take a weight lifter to turn it. The other
wheel should turn the other way. If one wheel will turn but the other won't, I'd
say either the bearings on that axle half are shot or that side needs thicker
gaskets between the housing and the banjo. If neither is easy to rotate, he
probably needs gaskets. Add a support under the banjo so that the rear end is
evenly supported at both ends and the middle. Drain the lubricant. Then loosen
all of the bolts holding the axle housing on the side that's binding to the
banjo. Loosen them about 1/16". If that axle rotates now, he needs thicker gaskets.
If neither wheel will turn without a great deal of effort, he definitely has a
problem with the spider binding. Add a support under the banjo so that the rear
end is evenly supported at both ends and the middle. Drain the lubricant. Then
loosen all of the bolts holding the both axle housings to the banjo. Loosen them
about 1/16". If the axles rotate now, he needs thicker gaskets.
If he still has a problem there, the rear end will have to come apart. We can
discuss that later if necessary.
I will not be able to help troubleshoot the actual overdrive beyond looking in
the manual (and it doesn't say much). I will say that, if he thinks he has a
problem with it and the overdrive unit has been drained of lubricant, it can
only be filled by running the car. The lubricant should also only be topped off
using the port on the overdrive unit; not the usual one on the banjo.
George Patterson
Why do men's hearts beat faster, knees get weak, throats become dry,
and they think irrationally when a woman wears leather clothing?
Because she smells like a new truck. |
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George Patterson
Guest
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| Posted:
Thu Jun 30, 2005 8:12 am Post subject:
Re: columbia 2 speed rearend |
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marcine73 wrote:
| Quote: |
He just can’t seem to get a handle on what could be going wrong.
|
One other thing that just occurred to me. If someone reversed the axles such
that the pinion gear is on the wrong side, something will definitely bind. I
can't remember if you can actually assemble the entire rear end this way -- I
think you can. But then nothing will turn.
George Patterson
Why do men's hearts beat faster, knees get weak, throats become dry,
and they think irrationally when a woman wears leather clothing?
Because she smells like a new truck. |
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Guest
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| Posted:
Mon Jul 04, 2005 12:12 am Post subject:
Re: columbia 2 speed rearend |
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Here's the rest of the installation of the
Columbia 2- speed rear end. If I missed anything e-mail the group.
Dan
Milw
Control and Speedometer Adaptor (Ford):- Control valve is mounted on
bracket bolted to top of left hand frame side rail ahead os steering
gear (back center hole engages rivet head, other holes must be drilled
for bolts). Special clip should be bolted to lower end of clutch pedal
and connected to bellcrank on control valve by rod. (see adjustment
below) . Forward vacuum tube connection on valve should be connected to
manifold spacer installed between carburetor and manifold (manifold
studs must be replaced with new longer studs when spacer installed).
Vacuum connections at rear of valve should be connected to vacuum
cylinder by rubber tubing and copper tubing running along left hand
frame side rail (connect 'low' top connection on valve to right hand end
of cylinder, 'high' bottom connection to left hand end of cylinder).
Control button is installed in drilled hole in instrument panel (2 ½"
up from starter button) 1-3/8" from left of instrument cluster), and
control cable taken through drilled hole in dash (3 ½" from left
edge). Connect cable wire to lever on top of valve, see that lever is in
forward detent position and that control button in forward position
against instrument panel, then tighten cable clamp on valve.
Speedometer Adaptor:- Adaptor screws directly on speedometer head
(install square key furnished for connection between adaptor and
speedometer before mounting) with regular speedometer cable connected to
adaptor and short control cable (from control button connected to
adaptor lever).
CAUTION – Button & Valve Assembly (Lincoln-Zephyr:- Control valve
mounted on steering gear housing cover plate. Connected in same manner
as Ford except as follows: Clutch pedal rod clip clamped to shaft at
clutch pedal end and inside edge of engine mud pan notched to provide
clearance for rod, control valve vacuum line connected to windshield
wiper connection on manifold with special adaptor, control valve mounted
on lower edge of instrument panel 2 1½"to right of starter button.
Speedometer Adaptor:- Adaptor should be mounted on left side of dash and
connected to speedometer by special short length of cable taken through
15/16" hole drilled in center of dash. Regular speedometer cable should
be looped up on left side of engine compartment and connected to
adaptor.
ADJUSTMENT:- Control Valve Clutch Connection – Adjust clevis on valve
operating rod at control valve end so that valve plunger is depressed
1/8" minimum, ¼" maximum with clutch pedal depressed to floor. Valve
travel must not exceed ¼".
Control Button – Cable conduit should be positioned in clamp on valve
body so that valve lever is in forward position (stopped by detent) with
control button pushed in towards dash and fastened in this position by
tightening clamp screw.
SERVICING:- Axle Lubrication - When first installed, axle should be
filled with 4 ½ pints (Ford), 6 pints (Lincoln-Zephyr) recommended
axle lubricant and car should be run with rear wheels jacked up
(transmission in high, overdrive in low) for 5 minutes to circulate oil
through overdrive unit. Axle should then be refilled to level of filler
plug in overdrive case. Always fill to level of overdrive filler plug
for this purpose.
Vacuum Cylinder Lubrication – At 10000 mile intervals, remove vacuum
cylinder, lubricate leather piston cups thoroughly with Houghton
Cosmolubric #1000 hydraulic oil or equivalent.
Speedometer Adaptor Lubrication - At 10000 miles, or sooner if noise
develops, remove adaptor, take out small plug on side and repack case
with Alemite lubricant by hand - do not use pressure.
TROUBLE SHOOTING:- If overdrive axle does not shift properly, check all
vacuum lines and connections for leaks, check tubes for kinks, sharp
bends, or flattened spots, make certain that rubber tubing is not cut or
torn so as to obstruct opening at valve and copper tubing connections.
Check valve settings (see adjustment setting above). |
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marcine73
Guest
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| Posted:
Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:12 am Post subject:
Re: Re: columbia 2 speed rearend |
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"" wrote:
| Quote: | Here's the rest of the installation of the
Columbia 2- speed rear end. If I missed anything e-mail the
group.
Dan
Milw
Control and Speedometer Adaptor (Ford):- Control valve is
mounted on
bracket bolted to top of left hand frame side rail ahead os
steering
gear (back center hole engages rivet head, other holes must be
drilled
for bolts). Special clip should be bolted to lower end of
clutch pedal
and connected to bellcrank on control valve by rod. (see
adjustment
below) . Forward vacuum tube connection on valve should be
connected to
manifold spacer installed between carburetor and manifold
(manifold
studs must be replaced with new longer studs when spacer
installed).
Vacuum connections at rear of valve should be connected to
vacuum
cylinder by rubber tubing and copper tubing running along left
hand
frame side rail (connect 'low' top connection on valve to
right hand end
of cylinder, 'high' bottom connection to left hand end of
cylinder).
Control button is installed in drilled hole in instrument
panel (2 ½"
up from starter button) 1-3/8" from left of instrument
cluster), and
control cable taken through drilled hole in dash (3 ½" from
left
edge). Connect cable wire to lever on top of valve, see that
lever is in
forward detent position and that control button in forward
position
against instrument panel, then tighten cable clamp on valve.
Speedometer Adaptor:- Adaptor screws directly on speedometer
head
(install square key furnished for connection between adaptor
and
speedometer before mounting) with regular speedometer cable
connected to
adaptor and short control cable (from control button connected
to
adaptor lever).
CAUTION – Button & Valve Assembly (Lincoln-Zephyr:- Control
valve
mounted on steering gear housing cover plate. Connected in
same manner
as Ford except as follows: Clutch pedal rod clip clamped to
shaft at
clutch pedal end and inside edge of engine mud pan notched to
provide
clearance for rod, control valve vacuum line connected to
windshield
wiper connection on manifold with special adaptor, control
valve mounted
on lower edge of instrument panel 2 1½"to right of starter
button.
Speedometer Adaptor:- Adaptor should be mounted on left side
of dash and
connected to speedometer by special short length of cable
taken through
15/16" hole drilled in center of dash. Regular speedometer
cable should
be looped up on left side of engine compartment and connected
to
adaptor.
ADJUSTMENT:- Control Valve Clutch Connection – Adjust clevis
on valve
operating rod at control valve end so that valve plunger is
depressed
1/8" minimum, ¼" maximum with clutch pedal depressed to floor.
Valve
travel must not exceed ¼".
Control Button – Cable conduit should be positioned in clamp
on valve
body so that valve lever is in forward position (stopped by
detent) with
control button pushed in towards dash and fastened in this
position by
tightening clamp screw.
SERVICING:- Axle Lubrication - When first installed, axle
should be
filled with 4 ½ pints (Ford), 6 pints (Lincoln-Zephyr)
recommended
axle lubricant and car should be run with rear wheels jacked
up
(transmission in high, overdrive in low) for 5 minutes to
circulate oil
through overdrive unit. Axle should then be refilled to level
of filler
plug in overdrive case. Always fill to level of overdrive
filler plug
for this purpose.
Vacuum Cylinder Lubrication – At 10000 mile intervals, remove
vacuum
cylinder, lubricate leather piston cups thoroughly with
Houghton
Cosmolubric #1000 hydraulic oil or equivalent.
Speedometer Adaptor Lubrication - At 10000 miles, or sooner if
noise
develops, remove adaptor, take out small plug on side and
repack case
with Alemite lubricant by hand - do not use pressure.
TROUBLE SHOOTING:- If overdrive axle does not shift properly,
check all
vacuum lines and connections for leaks, check tubes for kinks,
sharp
bends, or flattened spots, make certain that rubber tubing is
not cut or
torn so as to obstruct opening at valve and copper tubing
connections.
Check valve settings (see adjustment setting above).
|
Thank you to everyone for all your info. He did put the overdrive
together, but it’s still tight. He thinks there is some sort of
problems with the spider. I forget what he said. I will have to ask
him and post it.
I just wanted to come and say THANK YOU to everyone for their generous
information! :-)
--
Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Antique-Cars-columbia-speed-rearend-ftopict126644.html
Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=627031 |
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Guest
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| Posted:
Wed Jul 13, 2005 4:12 pm Post subject:
Re: columbia 2 speed rearend |
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Marcine, I can help with the Columbia,
but if he's having trouble with his spider he will have to talk to
Little Miss Muffet.
Dan
Milw |
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